A Holy Site in Konya - July 1, 2010

You are looking at a site considered to be one of the most holy in the Islamic world. I'm told that the turquoise tiles are quite rare and quite valuable.

The beloved philosopher Celaleddin Rumi, whose followers later called Mevlana (our guide), is buried here. As I approached the tomb, I saw dozens of people praying fervently in a way I found extremely moving.

After his death in 1273, Rumi's son founded the brotherhood of the whirling Dervishes. The Dervishes, clad in white robes and fezes, perform a worship ceremony involving a ritual dance, which is famous throughout the world. Take a look here.

Rumi's tomb is located in the city of Konya. On a map, Konya is inland about 360 miles (575 km) east of Izmir.

Konya was one of the first inhabited places on earth and was once an important trading center along the Silk Road. It is still known as a major agricultural area, although now manufacturing has become an important part of the economy.

Unlike the other cities I've visited, Konya has a reputation for being extremely conservative. I've seen more headscarves here than any where else in Turkey.

My latest Coach Surfing host is Recai, a professor in automotive engineering. Recai graciously showed me around the city and took me out to lunch with his delightful children, who were eager to practice their English. I got to sample some Turkish pizza, which unlike American pizza, is made on a wafer-thin crust.

Later that evening, I got to celebrate the birthday of Recai's son. By the end of the day, his daughter was calling me Uncle Mark. It doesn't get much better than that.

Like all of my other Couch Surfing hosts, I asked Recai about his thoughts on the organization. He told me, "I'm very happy about learning about different cultures. The Turkish people like to be hosts because guests are important according to our culture."

As for my project, Recai agrees that people are basically good, but he said in recent years he has been saddened by what he sees as the breakdown in worldwide human relations due to the increased use of television, the interent, governments pursuing their own political agendas at the expense of human relations, and religious groups that focus more on differences among other religious groups, instead of similarities.

As Recai put it, "It doesn't matter your race or religion, just that we are all human."

Recai is an intelligent man who is knowledgeable about many subjects. I enjoyed discussing several topics with Recai and having the opportunity to see world politics through Turkish eyes rather than American ones. It really puts things into a whole new perspective.

Thanks for welcoming me into your home, Recai.

Before I left Konya this morning, Recai set up two informal meetings with the head of a museum and the head of a car factory. I felt like a diplomat fielding questions about politics, religion, and current events, emphasizing throughout that I believe there are more similarities between the people of America and Turkey than differences.

I hope I added a little something to the spirit of open, peaceful dialogue. At the very least, I hope I left them smiling.

From Konya, I headed another four hours northeast to Kayseri, which is in a mountainous area of Turkey called Cappadocia. I'll let you know more tomorrow. Tonight, I am about ready for bed.

As always, thanks for reading my blog.

Update on Television Story

I have been getting a lot of positive feedback on the televison story that a reporter in Izmir did on my trip. After I left Izmir, a newspaper reporter called Umit because he also wanted to write a story. She gave him more information and sent him some pictures. Life really is funny sometimes.

It Keeps Getting More Amazing - June 29, 2010

Traveling Teacher 2010 is headed for Turkish television.

This morning, I was interviewed by Izmir's largest television station about my month-long journey through Turkey. Izmir's population is about 2.6 million, which means that tens of thousands of people will be able to learn about my story.



In the pictures, you can see Umit, my host, translating for the interview

The story is due to air at 19:00 Turkish time and 12 p.m. EST time in the United States. Here is the link for the station. If you happen to be on the web site at noon, you can see the story simulcast. Look on the far left-hand column of the web-site. About half way down, you will see the red logo with the words "Yeni Asir tv" Click on it, and you will be able to see the story during the newscast. I'm not sure when it will appear.

So how did this all happen? It is due in large part to the efforts of the man seated in this photo - Serdar Samur.


Serdar is the general manager of the soccer team Göztepe, which has a long, proud tradition in Izmir and throughout Turkey. Serdar is Umit's brother.

Umit felt I should meet Serdar, so yesterday we went to see him at his office. When I told Serdar about my journey, a spark went off inside him, and he said, "I think people should know about what you are doing."

Serdar is a man with connections. Before we could even finish our conversation, he was on his cell phone calling the head of the local television station.

Am I surprised about this latest turn of events? Absolutely not. The Turkish goodness keeps flowing my way. I'm learning to live in expectation. I'm learning on an even deeper level that anything is possible.

The interview was amazing, but spending my birthday yesterday with Umit, Reyhan, and Serdar meant even more to me.


Serdar graciously took us out to dinner and even surprised me with a birthday cake. As if that weren't enugh, Serdar also bought my ticket for the next leg of my journey.

It's hard to express my gratitude to Umit, Reyhan, and now my new friend, Serdar. They have shown me such kindness and love.

Especially, I am grateful for Umit. A few minutes after meeting her, I knew I was in the presence of a holy woman, who literally radiates goodness. It has been a privilege to get to know Umit, and I am honored to be her friend.

Sadly, my time is winding down in Izmir. Tonight, I'm headed to Konya, which is located about 8 hours due east of Izmir.

Once again, I'll probably be out of touch for a day or two, but I will still be sending all of you good thoughts, and I continue to be lifted up by all of your positive thoughts and comments.

Thanks!

Back to Izmir - June 28, 2010

After two days in Turgutreis, I said goodbye this morning to my latest host, Jim. Jim was gracious enough to show me the sites of the village from aboard his scooter.

I could have thought of no better way to have explored the coastline than with the wind blowing through my hair and the sun warming my skin, as I breathed in the salty air and marveled at the beauty around me. One word comes to mind - freedom.

Yesterday, Jim parked the scooter, and we planted ourselves on the beach. My only regret was that I didn't have a mask to gaze at the sealife below me in the turquoise water.


Thanks, Jim for your hospitality.

From Turgutreis, I look a four-hour bus ride back to Izmir to celebrate my 45th birthday with Umit and Reyhan.

The Turkish bus system is the best I've ever seen. The spacious, modern buses offer such amenities as on-board television, music, and movies, and all bus companies provide refreshments.

This morning, I enjoyed chocolate and vanilla ice cream. The universe must have known it was my birthday because the attendant offered me an extra cup.

In you are curious, the 180-mile (288-kilometer) trip cost around $15 USD.

As I write this entry, I am back in the peaceful and friendly confines of Umit's house. In a few minutes, we are headed downtown to celebrate my birthday. Even though I am so far from my family and friends, I feel happy knowing that I will get to spend this day with my special new Turkish friends.

Life is good.

A Taste of the Turkish Beach Life - June 27, 2010

I am continuing my journey through Turkey in a counterclockwise circle. You are looking at the village of Turgutreis, which is located about three hours due south of Ephesus.

You probably won't be able to find it on the map, so instead, look for Bodrum. It is along the southwest coast of Turkey on the South Aegean Sea.

Both Bodrum and Turgutreis are international resorts known for the blue waters of the Aegean

and for the beaches.

Umit recommended I visit this spot. Good call, Umit. My plan is to remain here for a couple of days soaking up the Turkish sun.

As with Ephesus, I am not staying with a Couch Surfer, but I am enjoying the hospitality of Umit's friend, Jim, who three years ago moved to Turkey from the United States. It isn't difficult to understand why he landed here.

Turgutreis isn't just about the beaches.

Yesterday, I also spent a lazy afternoon wandering through a local market sampling some of the delicacies of the region.

Oh yeah, Turgutreis is known for one more thing - some of the best sunsets in Turkey.

Like every other place I've visited in Turkey, I continue to marvel at the great kindness and assistance of the Turks. Yesterday, I arrived at the main bus station in Bodrum and had to take a mini-bus to Turgutreis. Of course, a fellow passenger asked around until he found the correct mini-bus and put me on it.

When I pulled into Turgutreis, I began looking for the address of my host, Jim. A man walked out of his business and shouted, "I'll help you." He invited me to come inside, handed me a cold bottle of water, and called Jim on his business phone.

Many people told me that I needed to bring a cell phone to Turkey. That certainly would have made things easier - I arrive in a city; I call my English-speaking host, and I'm picked up. However, I felt that would have given me much more autonomy and removed some of my need for relying on the benevolence of others.

Later today, I plan on taking my first plunge into the South Aegean Sea. Tomorrow, I'm heading back to Izmir to celebrate my birthday with Umit and Reyhan, at their request. I've felt surrounded by love and good will my entire time in Turkey, but Umit's special gesture means so much to me when I'm 5,000 miles from home.

Life is good, and people are good.

I wanted to, again, thank all of you who continue to read my blog and to send me words of encouragement. I can assure you that your thoughts and words buffet my spirits each day and have been a constant source of inspiration.

Thank you!

Financial Update (June 13-June 27)

I began my trip with $350.54, but since that time, I have received an additional $179.44 in donations. I have spent $173.45. That means that, at the half-way point in my trip, I have $356.53 left to spend over the next 15 days. Incredibly, that is more money than I left with from the United States.

New Donations

June 22 = 20 Turkish Lira = $12.60

June 22 = $52.75 - 1.83 (PayPal fee) = $50.92

June 23 = $20 - 0.88 (PayPal fee) = $19.12

June 25 = $100 - 3.20 (PayPal fee) = $96.80

Total Donations = $179.44

Expenses

Transportation = 112.80 Turkish Lira = $71.06

Food = 78.79 Turkish Lira = $49.63

VISA (to enter Turkey) = $20.00

Lodging = 30 Turkish Lira = $18.90

Ephesus Entrance = 20 Turkish Lira = $12.60

Internet Fees = 2 Turkish Lira = $1.26

Total Expenses = $173.45

Exploring Ephesus - June 26, 2010

Years ago, I had the privilege of visiting Rome to see some of the ancient ruins of the Roman Empire. Turkey has its own share of impressive ruins at Ephesus.

In 129 B.C., Ephesus became capital of the Roman province of Asia Minor. During its height, Ephesus was a wealthy trading city, and several awe-inspiring structures were built with that wealth.


...including the library of Celsus, which once contained 12,000 scrolls;

........the Great Theater, which could hold up to 25,000 people;

.......................and this marble-paved street.

Here are a couple of additional pictures.

You can get more historical details from the experts.

Christians believe that St. John wrote his gospel while living in Ephesus. As I walked through the ancient city, his words came a little bit more alive.

Ephesus is located a couple of miles away from Selçuk. If you look at a map, I traveled about an hour due south of Izmir to get here.

I've heard wonderful stories about the Greek coastline, but I cannot imagine anything much more beautiful than what I saw yesterday while driving through the mountains, gazing out at the Aegean Sea that stretched out beneath me the entire way from Izmir to Selçuk.

I couldn't find any Couch Surfers in Selçuk, so yesterday I checked into a hotel for the first time since arriving 13 days ago. The hotel was O.K, but I felt a real absence without my Turkish friends.

That evening, I tried something new - Turkish meatballs. Picture thinly-sliced, lean beef on a bed of fresh onions and tomatoes, smothered in cheese and butter. Fabulous!

Of course, no day would be complete without another story of Turkish kindness. Yesterday, I climbed aboard a mini-bus to travel three-fourths of the way to my destination, a junction near Selçuk, where the mini-bus would continue in another direction, and I would have to catch another bus.

The driver knew I was a foreigner, so he insisted that I sit next to him. I'm hardly a helpless traveler, but I never want to turn down a thoughtful gesture.

When we reached the junction, the driver stopped the bus, actually jumped out, and flagged down the correct bus to take me to Selçuk. I gave him a hearty handshake, and he responded with a smile whose meaning I could have understood in any language.

Living In Expectation - June 25, 2010

One of the lessons that Umit is trying to teach me is that we all need to have much higher expectations for our lives.

Far too often, we settle for table scraps when a veritable feast is waiting for us in the universe if only we will expect more, if only we will believe more, if only we will dream more, if only we will ask for more.

Earlier this week, I was overwhelmed when I received three additional donations on my blog. Umit just smiled and said, "More is coming." When I asked her why, she said that I was extremely clear with what I asked the universe - benevolence to travel through Turkey and the dream of having money left over for charity.

"Now you will get both," she laughed.

This morning, I received an additional $100 dollar donation, which means that 12 days into my journey I have more money in my pocket than when I left the United States.

God certainly must have a sense of humor because this month-long journey is starting to look like one of the strangest fund raisers ever for Doctors Without Borders, Catholic Relief Services, and Save the Children.

It is as if the universe is telling me, "Come on, Mark. Your expectations for benevolence are way too low."


Travel Note:

I am writing to you from an Internet Cafe in Selçuk, which is just outside Ephesus. It might be a day or two before I am back in touch. As always, thanks for reading my blog.

A Slower Place - June 24, 2010

I've been spending a lot of time in some of Turkey's largest cities, so today, my hosts took me for a drive along the Aegean Sea to glimpse a more traditional, more relaxed side of Turkey.


We ended up in the village of Urla.

Urla has managed to retain some of the facets of the Turkish culture that are beginning to die out elsewhere in the country.

Life here seems to be a lot slower. Everywhere I looked I saw people mulling about on the street enjoying one another's company through a friendly conversation, drinking cay (Turkish tea) or any of a number of other pursuits.

The man in this picture is smoking a nargile or Turkish water pipe. The pipe was a way of life for more than two centuries during the Ottoman Empire, but the pipe's use declined with the rise in cigarette usage.

No, I don't smoke. I don't condone smoking, and I go out of my way to tell my students and my friends to never take up such an unhealthy habit, but smoking is a big part of Turkey's past and present.

With the resurgence of nargiles, now many Turks are smoking a fruit-flavored, herbal mixture, instead of tobacco.

That's all I have to share for today. We are about ready to sit down and enjoy some fresh bread that we bought in Urla.

Often, people ask me why I love to travel so much. My common response is "because life is short." My friend Mike says it even better, "I could have been a lot further ahead in my 401k, but how many people can say they took a hot air balloon ride above the Serengeti Plain."

We'll all be gone from this earth shortly enough. With that in mind, I will leave you with a popular Chinese proverb, "Enjoy yourself. It's later than you think."



Travel Note:

I am back on the road tomorrow, so it might be a couple of days before I am able to post again. I continue to appreciate your messages and your support.

Recharging in Izmir - June 23, 2010

"We do not know where we are going but we are on our way."

- Stephen Vincent Benet





Those of you who know me well know that I am a habitiual planner, but I decided to cast that aside for this trip and, instead, let the universe take me where it saw fit.

The only plan I had ahead of time was to visit Istanbul, since I was flying there, and visit Ephesus, since several people recommended it. If someone suggests a place, I feel that is the universe talking, so I go. If not, I don't go. That's my way of choosing locations to visit.

Suggestions led me from Istanbul to Canakkale to Akcay and now to Izmir. If you look at a map of Turkey, I am currently traveling south in a counterclockwise direction.

Every place I have visited has been a great experience. Now I am enjoying my second day in Izmir with my gracious hosts Umit and her roommate Reyhan.



After meeting them both, it took me about 10 minutes to feel as if I were an old friend. Last night, I was reclining on the sofa reading a book, while Umit was working on the computer, and Reyhan was washing strawberries for homemade marmalade she was preparing for breakfast when a feeling of joy flooded over me as the realization sunk in of how truly fortunate I am to be amongst such wonderful ladies.

It is worth repeating that before traveling to Turkey I had never met any of my Couch Surfing hosts, and yet, they have treated me with a level of kindness and trust normally only acquired after years of friendship.

As I write this entry, Umit and Reyhan are out, and they trust me enough, after knowing me for two days, to leave me alone with a spare key in what they say I should consider to be my "home." Either I am the luckiest person to have ever traveled in Turkey with the people who have crossed my path, or there is something greater at work here. As I've said over and over again, I believe a benevolent universe is responsible.

I think it is also worth repeating that I am hardly roughing it. Here is Umit and Reyhan's house, and even though I am not eating in five-star restaurants, I can't imagine tasting food any better than the delicious cooking of Reyhan and Umit. More importantly to me, I am getting to forge new friendships and experience Turkey in a way I never could have staying in hotels.


The universe definitely sent me to the right place at this point in my journey. I had forgotten how long it takes to adjust to a new country, especially after the 20+ hours of traveling it took for me to get to Turkey.

It has been a real blessing to just unwind in such a peaceful place with such peaceful women. Although Izmir is a city of more than two million people, Umit and Reyhan live in a quiet, residential area just across the street from the Aegean Sea. Each morning, Umit swims to begin her day. This morning, I gladly joined her.


I am also blessed to be receiving such guidance and support from Umit. She is a very spiritual woman, who has gone through her own struggles and become a better person as a result. She is teaching me to trust my mission even more and to be even more aware of what is going on around me and the people around me.

Umit believes that people either give off positive energy or negative energy. Those who are giving off positive energy tend to attract other people giving off positive energy and thus, good things normally happen. On the other hand, people who give off negative energy tend to attract other negative people and thus, bad things tend to happen.

Umit continues to tell me that since I am so committed to my mission of benevolence I am attracting goodness and creating my own reality in Turkey, which has been so amazing. She is giving me a lot to think about for the manner in which I should live my daily life once I return to the United States.

Originally, I had planned on visiting Ephesus tomorrow, but Umit wants to show me around Izmir tomorrow, and she wants more time to try to set up a couple of hosts for future destinations.

I was worried I would be imposing, but she and Reyhan insist that they are enjoying my company, and Reyhan has already made me promise that wherever I am in Turkey, I will return next week to celebrate my birthday with the two of them. I told her I would be honored.

I am beginning to run out of words to express it, so I will just say that the Turkish people really are incredible. I hope you will consider coming here one day to see for your self.

In closing, I want to again thank all of you for making this trip possible. I want to especially thank Umit's friend, Patricia Hamilton, who is coming to the end of her own month-long trip to Turkey.

Earlier this week, I meet her in Akcay, where she was visiting Umit. Before Patricia left, I found 20 Turkish Lira, about $12.60 on top of my backpack. I asked where the money came from. Patricia said, "It isn't much, but I really appreciate what you are trying to do to show that the world is a good place."

If that wasn't enough, last night, a high school classmate, who I hadn't talked to in 28 years, gave me a $50 donation on my blog and today, I discovered an additional $20 donation from another reader. I am truly touched.

Below, you will find an updated financial statement. A couple of days ago, I was ready to tell you that I had spent $102.38 over the past 11 days in Turkey, which I think is pretty amazing, but with the latest donations, I am now down only $19.74 from where I started.

Can you explain it?

Financial Update

I started out my trip with $350.54, but since then, I have received an additional $82.64 in donations. So my total assets are now $433.18.

The donations are as follows:

- $52.75 (minus a PayPal service fee of 1.83) = $50.92
- $20.00 (minus a PayPal service fee of 0.88) = $19.12
- 20 Turkish Lira, equivalent of about = $12.60


Expenses:

Transportation = 78.80 TL = $49.64
Food = 47.29 TL = $29.79
VISA(to enter Turkey) = $20.00
Money exchange feeds = 2.32 TL = $ 2.95

Total expenses = $102.38

I now have $330.80 left to spend over the next 19 days.

Greetings From Izmir - June 22, 2010

The journey to my next Couch Surfing host led me to Akcay, where I met up with Umit, a name which means "hope" in Turkish.




Akcay is located about two hours southeast of Canakkale along an inlet of the North Aegean Sea. We spent only a day here before moving on to Umit's home in Izmir, but there was time to take my first swim in Turkey and enjoy the ambience before departing the following day.

Also, I got to witness a Turkish wedding. In Akcay, the tradition is that the street is closed so that the wedding can be held outdoors, and everyone is invited.



Two More Acts of Kindness

When I arrived in Akcay, I had Umit's telephone number, but no phone, and no idea where she lived. As I was walking along the sidewalk, I passed a man getting a shoe shine, who called out, "You are from England?"

I explained where I was from and what I was doing in Akcay, and he asked me if I wanted to walk to a building where I could make a "call for free."

The building turned out to be a public facility with several pay phones. Even though Umit is bilingual, the man took it upon himself to make sure there would be no problems with the communication between me and my host. Then, he hung up and paid for the call. I objected, but he said, "You are my guest now in Turkey. It is my pleasure."

Afterward, the man walked me to his car and drove me to the bus station, where Umit was waiting. Umit in Turkish explained my mission to him, and he simply responded, "You have chosen the right country, my friend."

Before leaving, the man asked me once again if I needed anything else, since I was his "guest."

Later, Umit and I and her friend, Patricia, strolled through the streets of the small waterfront town. Umit and Patricia ducked into a store, but I decided to wait outside.

Suddenly, a man in the store next door pulled out a stool and invited me to sit with him on the sidewalk.

He didn't speak any English, but he proceeded to offer me a bottle of mineral water and showed me a book with local sites. The man was in no way trying to sell me anything. He just wanted to be hospitable.

When Umit returned, he explained to her that he was happy I was in Turkey. Then, once again, Umit told him about my journey, and he, too, said he believed in the goodness of people.

It is hard to explain the feeling of coming across all of the people who have helped me in one way or another during my time in Turkey. It is as if there is some cosmic alliance whose mission is to safely deliver me from place to place until I meet my next host. It really is amazing, but Umit believes that I am creating this reality because I, too, am trusting the universe, and so, it is responding in kind.

As I am writing this, I am safely tucked away at Umit's home in Izmir, which is located about four hours south of Ackay. Umit is a spiritual healer/spiritual writer and a retired teacher.

When I meet each of my Couch Surfing hosts, I ask why he or she participates in the program. Umit had this to say, "I want to connect with people from all over the world, exchange information, and to develop more compassion toward other people by learning more about their cultures and lifestyles."

Some people have already told me that I'm crazy for staying in the homes of strangers, and I've heard it said that certainly a woman shouldn't do it. Umit had this to say, "I trust people. It doesn't matter whether it is a man or woman. Couch Surfing is very safe and done in a very professional manner."

Umit has hosted travelers for three years and never had a problem.

Finally, I asked Umit about my belief that the world is a good place. She said, "I completely agree. Goodness is inside each of us, and it reflects onto others."

In a previous post, I told you about Umit. Currently, she is participating in a worldwide spirituality writing contest, whose winner will receive a book contract. You can see her story and read a chapter of her book by clicking on this link. Her author ID number is 1118. If you like her writing, I hope you wil consider voting for her in the contest.

The second round of the contest ends on June 28. In the first round, she was one of 270 people chosen out of 2,700 entrants. The second round whittles that number down to 25.

NOTE: Umit did not ask me to make this request. I am doing it because I believe she has a lot to share with the world.

It's been a long day, so I'm going to wrap it up. Izmir seems to be a good place to relax for a couple of days. I'm worn out, and my body is telling me to rest. Umit's house is just across the street from the North Aegean Sea, which will give me ample opportunities to enjoy the soothing waters and become refreshed.

Thanks for reading my blog.

Farewell From Canakkale - June 21, 2010

(Özgür performs on a traditional Turkish instrument called a bağlama.)







This morning, I will leave Canakkale full of fond memories of the time spent with Özgür and his friends.

Özgür showed me a side of the city that would never have been possible if I were exploring Canakkale on my own, and his generosity was humbling. Many times, I tried to pay for things, but he would not let me.

It was the same way in Istanbul with Gökhan. One night when I asked Gökhan why he would not let me pay for dinner, he said, "I like being a part of something."

I also feel like I am a part of something receiving such acts of kindness from the people of Turkey.

In tribute to Özgür, I will close with one of his favorite quotes from James Dean, "Dream as if you will live forever. Live as if you will die today."


Travel Note

I am traveling today to Akcay and tomorrow to Izmir, so it might be a couple of days before I am able to post again.

Canakkale - June 20, 2010

The person on the right is my new Couch Surfing host Özgür and you might recognize what is behind us. It is the Trojan horse used in the movie Troy with Brad Pitt. Troy, itself, is about 30 miles from here.

But my focus is the harbor town of Canakkale, which is located between the Sea of Marmara and the Aegean Sea.

People come here on weekends to unwind and enjoy the waterfront.

Canakkale is also a popular spot for nightlife. One of the advantages of staying with Özgür, a school psychologist, is that he knows the great eating spots.

And there's no better way to top off a meal than with the Turkish beverage of choice, tea.

I plan on staying here one more day and then head for another waterfront town called Akcay, where I will meet my next host, and together we will go to Izmir.

As with my other Couch Surfing host, Gökhan, I asked Özgür why he allows strangers into his home. He said that he enjoys meeting people from different cultures, and like me, he believes most people are honest, so he is not afraid of hosting. I never would have made it through my first week in Turkey if that were not the case.

Please keep reading, and again, I appreciate all of your support.

Financial Update - June 13-19

Here is an update on how much I have spent during my first week in Turkey. Obviously, I can't afford to go to the opera, which I don't do much in the United States, and I haven't eaten in any 5-star restaurants, but why would I when I sometimes get to eat homemade food or eat at restaurants that locals recommend.

I have to avoid some things, but I in no way feel deprived.

Here is the breakdown:

Transportation - 55.80 Turkish Lira (TL) - about $35 USD. My big expense here was a $22 bus ride from Istanbul to Canakkale.

Food - 45.54 TL - about $29 USD.

VISA to enter Turkey - $20 USD

Exchange fee - 1.32 TL - about .83 USD

Total amount spent - $85 USD

Assistance At Every Turn - June 19, 2010

I have heard it a hundred times - people in large cities are cold, impersonal, and certainly will not go out of their way to help someone in need. Yesterday, my guardian angels in Istanbul disproved that myth, as I traveled to my next stop, the harbor city of Canakkale.

Canakkale, which is located about six hours south of Istanbul, is a popular weekend destination, especially during summer. I found that out the hard way when the first two bus companies my host, Gökhan, called said they had no seats for the next two days.

The third time was the charm, but the catch was the company could only hold the reservation for one hour. I jumped on a bus and raced to town to pay for the ticket.

For some reason, the bus began to head in the opposite direction. I tried to get an explanation from the driver, but he did not understand my Turkish, which consists of about 10 words.

Then, the first of a string of guardian angels sprung into action. A group of four riders huddled around me and through their combined efforts managed to communicate to me that it was just a deteor.

I breathed a sigh of relief and we continued toward the section of town with the bus station. My earlier plight must have made quite an impression on one of the four group members because, suddenly, I saw her demeanor change, as if she were contemplating something important.

Next, the woman smiled, popped up out of her seat, and gestured for me to follow her. I got the feeling it was not her stop, but she was on a mission.

I handed the woman a piece of paper with the name of the bus company on it, and we were off. For several blocks, she led me through the streets until we arrived at the bus company. The woman would not leave until the attendant confirmed that I had a reservation.

Then, I gave her my warmest teşekkür ederim (thank you), a handshake, and she was gone. She will never know how much her kindness meant to me.

With the bus not leaving for several hours, I wandered around and eventually made my way back to the bus company to catch a shuttle to the bus station. Here, too, the attendants personally looked after me and led me to the right shuttle when it arrived.

After a few minutes, we pulled into the station, which was full of buses headed in all directions. I did not have to search for the correct bus because the shuttle driver asked for my ticket and led me to a waiting area.

Before leaving, he said something to another employee, who looked in my direction. About an hour later, my bus arrived. I knew it had arrived because, you guessed it, that same employee walked me to the bus, where the driver greeted me with a cheerful, "Ah, American. New York City."

I am certainly grateful for the assistance I received, but as I wrote a couple of days ago, such instances of traveling kindness are not unique. I believe that most people have that spark inside motivating them to help someone in need.

As I close, I want to tell you that I have safely made it to my stop, Canakkale. Even though the bus was three hours late, my new host, Özgür was still waiting. CouchSurfing really is amazing.

I will have more in the next day or two, but bear with me because sometimes it is hard to get to a computer.

Time Winding Down In Istanbul - June 17, 2010

Yesterday, I did a little bit more sightseeing but also had a chance to iınteract more with Gökhan in his personal life.

I got to see his team play soccer, and his team won. The stars must have all been in allignment because Gökhan scored the winning goal. Afterward, Gökhan said, "You would not have a chance to see a local soccer game staying in a fancy hotel."

He was probably right. My best travel experiences have always been while I was staying with a family. I enjoy tourist sites like anyone else, but I always prefer the chance to get to talk to and to know the people in the places I visit.

I have nothing against fancy hotels and fancy restaurants, but in those environments a tourist runs the risk of being isolated from the very people he or she is visiting. A tourist runs the risk of not interacting much at all with the culture.

With the soccer game behind us, we headed to a local gathering of CouchSurfers. Thousands of people participate in the program in Istanbul. Within about five minutes of walking into the gatheriıng, I had met travelers from several countries and received two invitations to visit Egypt and Morocco.

Today, I will spend more time seeing the Asian side of Istanbul. A teacher friend of Gökhan is going to show me around.

Tomorrow, I will head to a new city called Canakkale. I will give you more details when I get there.

As my time in Istanbul winds down, I leave you with a couple of reflexions. If you are ever thinking of visiting, do it. Istanbul reminds me a lot of New York City regarding the diversity of the people, the tremendous cultural options available here, and the great energy and excitement of the place, but unlike New York, Istanbul also has hundreds of years of history.

In addition, I could never think of Istanbul in the future without thinking of Gökhan. He is one of the most generous, peaceful individuals who I have ever met. Gökhan is a great ambassador for his city but also the very embodiment of benevolence. Thank you for everything, Gökhan.

I will have more when I arrive at my next destination. Thanks for reading my blog as we all continue the journey to see if a person can spend a month in Turkey relying on the goodness of others.

Afternoon Update

Today, Gökhan's friend, Büşra, graciously showed me around one of the outlying areas along the Bosphorus River. What a beautiful spot nestled on the waterfront. I'm sorry I forgot to take my camera.

Then, Büşra introduced me to some traditional Turkish cuisine. Earlier, we sipped Turkish coffee at a sidewalk cafe (It was like cappachino on steroids).



Later that evening, she cooked a traditional meal of Yufka Börek, which is a giant flour wrap stuffed with meat and vegetables; Cacik, a combination of cucumber, yogurt and water; and Şakşura, which is a dish with eggplant and pepper.



Wow! She is a fabulous cook. I am in danger of gaining twenty pounds in Turkey, but what a problem to have.

Financial Update

Earlier, I told you I would keep you updated on my expenses. I started out my trip with $350.54. Here is a breakdown of my expenses from June 13- June 16: Food = $22; VISA to enter Turkey = $20; Transportation = $8.51; Money exchange fee = .83. The grand total is $51.34.

That means I have about $300 left to spend over the next 26 days. Turkey is by no means inexpensive, but Gökhan assures me Istanbul is the most expensive city I will visit.

Still, I would have spent much more if not for the generosity of Gökhan.

Yesterday, I tried to show a small token of my appreciation by cooking him dinner. In the process, I learned a very important cultural lesson - do not always trust the pictures on labels. Since I do not understand Turkish, I bought a can of what I thought was tomatoes. It turned out to be tomato paste. Fortunately, there is always the magic of water.

Spices and Spirituality - June 16, 2010

I think I have found a passion to pursue in retirement. I like the sound of calling my eatery The Kabab Kastle.





Part of what makes my new culinary addiction so tasty is the spices. Especially in medieval times, spices were an important, and often expensive, part of cooking. For hundreds of years, Istanbul was a crucial link in the spice trade because the city is situated between Eastern countries where most spices were grown and Europe.

Today, a spice market still exists in Istanbul. The Spice Bazaar was built during the 1660s.

I have never been a fan of shopping, but I would quickly change that attitude if I got to breathe in the aroma of the coriander and nutmeg and ginger and all of the other spices that delighted my senses yesterday while waking through the corridors of the market.

Since I was on a roll, I decided to also visit The Grand Bazaar, which has been in existence since the 1400s.
It is a maze of hundreds of shops selling everything a souvenir hound or local resident would ever want, and dozens of merchants wanted to sell me something, even though I kept telling them that a Turkish rung would not fit well in my backpack during my next month in Turkey.

But that did not even slow the merchants down. "No problem. I will keep the rug for you until you get back. No problem. I will mail it for you. No problem. You can at least look at my rugs. Because you are a teacher, I will give you a special discount."

I have heard sales pitches in markets all over the world, but yesterday I heard the best pitch ever. At the time, I was carrying a bag with a bottle of water that weighed only a few ounces. A merchant saw me passing and said, "Hey, big, strong man. How can I help you spend your money?" Actually, I learned a new Turkish phrase to handle such situations - "Param yok," which means "I have no money."


After a couple of hours of fending off the economic advances of the shop keepers, I decided to tour a few of the mosques of Istanbul.




It is not hard to locate a mosque because of the towers that dot the skyline throughout the country. The towers are called minarets.

I am certainly no expert on Islam, so I sat down yesterday and talked with a representative at the famous Blue Mosque, who explained some of the features of a mosque.

He told me that the minarets symbolically remind people to focus on Allah/God in their lives and to draw attention to the fact that a mosque is located at a particular site, but he also told me that the minarets serve a very practical function.

One of the basic tenants of Islam is that Muslims are obligated to pray at five designated times throughout the day. Before each prayer time begins, someone in each mosque, called a muezzin, issues a "call to prayer."

The muezzin goes into the base of one of the minarets, which have loud speakers attached, or climbs stairs to the top of a minaret and recites a specific prayer to assemble the believers. If a person cannot get to a mosque, a Muslim is allowed to pray wherever he or she is at the time.

Even though I am not a follower of Islam, I still am captivated daily by the sound of the rhythmic chants echoing through the streets of Istanbul, reminding me that there is something far greater than each of us and our individual concerns.

Another noticable difference between a mosque and a church is that there are no pews in a church. Instead, Muslims pray on the carpeted floor. Worshippers remove their shoes before going inside.



Also, there are no images in mosques. The representative told me that is because Muslims believe that it would be impossible and even blasphemos to try to create an image to represent Allah. Also, any human or animal images would be considered iınappropriate because
worshippers are to focus on Allah and Allah alone and not on human or animal images.
Again, I am no expert on Islam, so I apologize ahead of time if any of this iınformation is iıncorrect.




Still, there is no lack of beautiful artwork in mosques.

Many of the mosques contain stunning tiles that adorn the
walls and ceilings.






One of the most famous mosques in Istanbul, and in all of the world, is the Blue Mosque, which gets its name from the tens of thousands of tiles inside.




Many of the tiles were hand painted.

I have iıncluded a couple of pictures, but the pictures do not do justice to the magnifience of the artwork.














Before I close, I wanted to thank all of you for the many e-mails I received checking on whether I had arrived safely ın Turkey. As I reflect on it, it really is remarkable that before Monday I had never even met my host, Gökhan, and yet, I managed to travel 5,000 miles to a country with a language I cannot speak and managed to find my way, through a lot of friendly helpers, to a meeting spot I had never seen before, trusting that Gökhan would actually be there and him trusting that I would actually show up, and now I am typing you this message from a computer in his home.

Frequent overseas travelers are probably smilıng right now because my story is far from unique. It is just a small reminder of travel magic in a benevolent universe.