I Need Your Feedback - July 28, 2010

It's hard to believe that I wrote my first post on Traveling Teacher 2010 almost a year ago. It has been a real joy to share my thoughts on life, travel, and my experiences in Turkey.

I'm not one for exaggeration, but I can say without a doubt that the trip has forever changed my outlook on life.

Over the last two weeks, after a couple of friends suggested the idea, I have been pondering writing a book about my blog and my adventures in Turkey. I am trying to get an idea if it might be a story that people would enjoy reading, so I've set up a simple poll with the question - "Should I Write a Book About Traveling Through Turkey?"

I've lived with this project for so long that it's hard for me to ascertain if the general population would find the topic interesting or if it is time for me to let it all go.

Any feedback, especially from writers or publishers, would be appreciated.

The poll is on the right-hand side of the blog below "Final Breakdown of Expenses."

Back Home - July 26, 2010

No adventures in Panama City.

I planned on traveling to Panama City for another couple of days at the beach, but I decided to return to Dalton for several reasons, including my father's 77th birthday and a bad sunburn on my back.

All summer, I've had such adventures and such high expectations that good things were waiting around each corner. Now it's time to get back to reality, or is it?

One of my friends in Turkey, Umit, believes that we create our own realities. She says if we think positively and act positively, then we tend to draw positive people and positive experiences into our lives. If we think negatively and act negatively, then we attract negativity into our lives. Birds of a feather....

My location is now different, but my mindset doesn't have to change. In Turkey, I expected wonderful things to happen, and they did. I began to believe anything was possible, and I realized that my dreams were too small and needed to be replaced with much larger ones.

I don't want my new viewpoint to disappear. According to Oliver Wendell Holmes, it won't. "A mind that is stretched by a new experience can never go back to its old dimensions."

From now on, my goal is to try to get beyond just minimal expectations of life and, instead, shoot for the stars. Turkey and Florida are over, but the adventures don't have to be, as long as I maintain my Turkish outlook.

I believe all of us can lead happier, more fulfilling lives if we will begin to truly expect more from life and from the universe.

As Mahatma Gandhi put it, "A man is but the product of his thoughts. What he thinks, he becomes."

Hospitality American Style - July 25, 2010

It's been a great five days in Destin with Trevor, who is a super host. I swam every day; went bike riding; ate in some terrific restaurants; saw Le Grand Cirque, which I highly recommend; visited Seaside, Florida, the filming location for the movie The Truman Show starring Jim Carrey, which I would also recommend because the city was built as a model community; and experienced some incredible hospitality.

Yesterday, Trevor invited me to a cookout. The host had a delicious spread of food, and we spent the day swimming, playing horseshoes and other games, and sharing travel stories. Since Trevor is in the military, many of his friends have traveled to locations all over the globe, and his friends all touted the benefit of spending time in other cultures.

Before I left, I had a chance to talk with the host. I thanked him for inviting me to the cookout, and I said how impressed I was with the extent of his hospitality. He said something in reply that is a good philosophy for living, in general. "It is no fun having it, if you don't share it."

When I was traveling in Turkey, many of my friends said they wanted to journey through the United States, but they weren't sure what kind of reception they would get. If my week in Florida is any indication, I would tell them wholeheartedly to come. Goodness is not limited by national boundaries.

Today, I am leaving Destin and headed to Panama City, where new adventures await. I'll keep you posted.

Florida Magic - July 24, 2010

When I was traveling in Turkey, I frequently found myself thinking, "This is great. How did I get here?" That thought was often followed by another thought, "What a tragedy it would have been if I had said 'no' to my impulse to set up my blog because then the chain of events that took me to Turkey would never have happened."

Life presents us with countless opportunities to meet new people and to try new experiences, but sometimes we sidestep the opportunities because we're lazy, we don't want to be inconvenienced, or we are scared.

I speak from experience. I look back at my life and wonder what adventures and opportunities for growth that I missed out on because I said "no."

During my trip to Florida, I've also found myself thinking, "How did I get here?"

Over the past four days, I've seen a side of Florida, through Couch Surfing, that I've never seen before. I've eaten at off-the-beaten-path restaurants that I would never have found on my own. I've had a chance to interact with residents and get a local perspective on life in Florida, aside from just the perspective of tourists. I've had a chance to get beyond only beaches and seafood, although there's a lot to be said for both.

Just last week, a friend and I were talking about Mali. On Wednesday, my host, Trevor, got a Couch Surfing message from a woman visiting her brother in Destin. It turns out that she just returned from a two-year stint in the Peace Corps in Mali.

Her brother is involved with the show Le Grand Cirque, which is similar to Cirque du Soleil. Last night, he gave us tickets to the show, and so I found myself on the third row again asking myself, "How did I get here?"

I didn't expect much out of the show ahead of time, but it was one of the best productions I've ever seen. The troup of Chinese acrobats twisted, tumbled and balanced in ways that I thought were impossible. If you ever have a chance to see the show, do it.

I'm staying one more night in Destin, and tomorrow, I think I'm headed to Panama City for a day or two, where I hope to stay with another Couch Surfer.

What will happen there? I have no idea, but I know it will be good. If I've learned one thing this summer, it is that we need to raise our expectations in life and quit settling for the minimum and mediocrity.

I'll close with a quote from A.A. Milne, who wrote Winnie-the-Pooh. "Time is swift, it races by; Opportunities are born and die...Still you wait and will not try - A bird with wings who dares not rise and fly."


WEATHER UPDATE: I'm sure you've heard about the storm in the Gulf of Mexico. It isn't expected to come anywhere near Destin, but if conditions change, I'll leave.

Americans are Pretty Amazing Too- July 22, 2010

After one of the best months of my life, I am having trouble leaving Turkey behind and reacclimating to a daily routine in the United States.

I miss my Turkish friends. I miss the thrill of waking up each morning and wondering what adventure awaits. I miss my kebabs.

I needed a few days to relax, unwind, and contemplate life, so I decided to head to the beach, Destin, Florida, to be exact.

Even though Destin is on the Gulf of Mexico, there's no oil here, just a little bit of seaweed, but yesterday that didn't stop anyone, including me, from swimming and enjoying the waves.

Since I've been back from Turkey, I've been sharing my stories about the tremendous generosity of the Turks, and I've been raving about Couch Surfing.

Some people have been trying to dismiss my positive experiences with Couch Surfing, saying things along the lines of, "You were a novelty in Turkey, since you were from the United States, but I'll bet a Turkish person wouldn't get the same treatment in Turkey or an American traveling in the United States."

I disagree because I believe benevolence is benevolence. It doesn't matter if it is Turkey, Taiwan, or the United States. People are people, and most people are good.

Normally, when I decide to take a trip, I jump on the internet to find a hotel, but I wanted to prove to my skeptics that Americans can be just as hospitable as anyone else, so I sent out three requests on Couch Surfing for hosts in Florida, and all three said, "yes."

My latest host is Trevor, a military pilot. Last month, I had to make an initial leap of faith in Turkey, since I had never used Couch Surfing before. This week, Trevor had to do the same because I am the first person he has ever hosted.

Trevor said he decided to join Couch Surfing because his ex-girlfriend had great experiences overseas with the program, and he, too, believes most people are inherently good.

Florida is 5,000 miles away from Turkey, but Trevor gave me a similar warm welcome, and like my hosts in Turkey, even though we had just met, Trevor handed me a key to his house, since he had to leave for a few hours last night because of a previous engagement. "Make your self at home," he said, as he left.

America is full of unwarranted fear. Part of the problem is the media. I say this from the perspective of an ex-newspaper and television reporter who left on good terms and who doesn't have any axes to grind.

Media outlets, especially television stations, tend to focus on the aberrations in society and present them as if they were the norm, but home invasions and drive-by shootings and swindlers are not the norm. Most people are kind, hard working, and are not trying to take advantage of their neighbors.

I also blame the business world because fear sells. Fear sells guns. Fear sells burglar alarms. Fear sells gated communities.

Likewise, I blame governments around the globe. Fear is used to keep populations distracted and under control and to pursue political objectives.

As author Marianne Williamson puts it, "Love is what we were born with. Fear is what we learn."

Couch Surfing might not be for everyone, but it is yet another reminder that the universe isn't an evil place. As I learned in Turkey, wonderful things often happen when we are willing to dream more, to trust each other more, and to begin to live with higher expectations.

The Ripples Continue Spreading - July 19,2010

This morning, I was talking with one of my neighbors about my trip to Turkey and said one of the things that I found most amazing about the experience was how the word spread about my project over the internet, even though, until May, I told only six people about my blog.

Yet, to date, I have had 3,205 visits to my site from 39 U.S. states, 37 foreign countries and two territories.

I chose a blog for my project because I wanted to show my kids that with the internet a person doesn't need a lot of money, a lot of power, or a lot of connections to get noticed. All a person needs is a dream.

During my trip, both a newspaper and a television station in Turkey's third largest city, Izmir, did stories on my trip. A couple of hours ago, I received word that an internet news service today in Izmir also did a story. Here's the link, although it is in Turkish.

I continue to be humbled by the reaction to my trip, and I'll leave you with this thought. If an unknown, public school teacher from a small city of 27,000 people can use the internet to get noticed in 38 countries and to find people willing to finance a month-long trip in Turkey, what can you achieve over the internet?

The world is hungry for new ideas and new dreams. It's time to share them with the rest of us. I'm living proof that even the strangest of dreams can come true.

Now It's Your Turn - July 18, 2010

My trip is over. I've unpacked my backpack. The jet lag is dissipating. I'm beginning to look toward school resuming in August.

I've put my passport away, but there are still six weeks left in summer, so why not consider a trip overseas.

Domestic travel is great, but international trips include the added thrill and benefit of exposing visitors to new cultures, new ideas, and new ways of seeing reality, all of which help break down some of the barriers that exist among nations and differing political, philosophical and theological ideologies.

Or to put it another way, it is hard to hate members of another culture if a visitor has a chance to interact personally with members of that culture.

Even though I've often encouraged friends and acquaintances to go abroad, people frequently tell me, "I can't go to _________because I don't know the language."

In an ideal situation, a traveler to a foreign country knows the language ahead of time. I speak Spanish, and this has enabled me to have many enriching experiences journeying south of the United States because I knew what was happening around me, and I could share ideas.

However, not knowing a language shouldn't keep one from leaving one's own borders.

For my trip this summer, I learned about ten Turkish phrases, which helped me immeasurably and which generated laughter throughout Turkey when I butchered the pronunciation.

I can't emphasize enough the power of a simple "merhaba" (hello). It tells Turks that a traveler cares enough to at least attempt the language. Also, I can't emphasize enough how much it can irritate a person in a foreign land if a traveler just walks up and begins speaking in his own language, assuming the other person understands. Unfortunately, Americans are very guilty of this one.

I've found that the secret to successful international travel is the ability to reawaken some of the skills mastered during kindergarten and the willingness to risk appearing foolish.

Gesturing is a wonderful tool for communication. Here are some of my favorites.

- The Pointer - Pointing is useful for ordering food, shopping, and choosing from items on lists, especially when the traveler in question sometimes has trouble in bus terminals pronouncing the names of certain Turkish cities.

- The Stomach Rub - This is an excellent way to indicate to a host that one is full or to demonstrate one's appreciation for the meal. One night, I applauded for the chef who cooked my kababs. He laughed and shook his head but seemed to appreciate my enjoyment of the dinner.

- The Thumb Raised Upward - I've used this gesture repeatedly over the years to communicate approval, understanding, and good will. Hey, it worked in Ancient Rome, worked for Fonzie, and still works for hitchhikers.

In addition, a sheet of paper performs wonders. I've written down addresses, telephone numbers, departure cities, and just handed it over for assistance. A blank sheet of paper also enables helpers to write down bus schedules, prices, and other valuable information.

It isn't always easy to communicate with gestures, but somehow the messages always get through.

I'm hoping that my summer trip through Turkey will give me more credibility in my classroom next year. I constantly tell my students to take chances with English, even if they might look silly.

The next time a student hesitates in class, I'm going to tell him or her that I made some pretty foolish gestures in Turkey to communicate, including my gesture for locating the bathroom. I'll leave that one to your imagination, but I got my point across, and students and adult travelers can too.

I would highly recommend Turkey, but if Turkey isn't to your liking, there are almost two hundred other foreign countries to visit. Life's short. Why not?

I hope you've seen repeatedly over the last month, through my experiences in Turkey, that another reason not knowing a language shouldn't be a deterrent to international travel is because the world is full of benevolent people who want to help you with your journey. The universe is a good place. It's O.K. to get out and explore.

Earlier this week, one of my Couch Surfing friends, Grace, sent me a quote that I can't get out of mind. The author was Anne Frank, the Jewish girl who wrote a famous diary about the two years that she and her family spent hiding from the Nazis during World War II.

Even with the horror that surrounded her, Anne wrote this, "It's really a wonder that I haven't dropped all my ideals, because they seem so absurd and impossible to carry out. Yet I keep them, because in spite of everything I still believe that people are really good at heart."

Thank You! - July 14, 2010

If I had to sum up my experience in Turkey, I would do it with this picture that I took near Ephesus.

For two miles, I strolled under the beautiful canopy, which shielded me from the hot afternoon sun and which filled me with excitement of what lay ahead. I felt like I was in some kind of Garden of Eden and that anything was possible. That's how I felt throughout my trip in Turkey.

I've traveled to more than 20 countries in my life and have often been treated with kindness, but nothing in the past compared to what I encountered in Turkey.

Strangers allowed me into their homes and within hours were treating me like members of the family. People that I met on the street offered me assistance with everything from letting me borrow cell-phones, to dinner invitations, to walking a mile out of the way to help me find an address.

At first, it surprised me. Then, I came to expect that good things were waiting for me at every turn. I was never disappointed.

I can say without a doubt that Turks are the friendliest, warmest, most generous people that I have ever met.

To give you an idea of the level of generosity, during the month that I was in Turkey, I spent just four nights in a hotel. The rest of the time I stayed with families. Repeatedly, my hosts wouldn't let me pay for anything, and many of my hosts gave me keys to their homes, even though we might have met only hours before.

If you are even slightly considering visiting Turkey, go!

Because I received such generosity, I didn't have to spend much money during my month-long trip in Turkey. My donations totaled $553.95. I spent only $395 (See final expenses listed on the right side of my blog under "Images of Turkey").

Keep in mind that Turkey isn't cheap. The guide books I read said I should have expected to spend at least $30 USD a day. I averaged around $13 a day, but I was far from roughing it.

My major expense was bus travel, which makes sense because I covered more than 3,440 km (2,150 miles) in my 15-city tour of Turkey.

The only city I planned on visiting was Istanbul, where I flew into from the United States. Every other city I visited was at the suggestion of my Turkish hosts. If someone said visit a place, I felt that was the universe telling me to go, so I went. All of the suggestions were great.

So what am I going to do with the $159 this is left? As promised, I am going to give the money to the three charities that the world voted on, but I already made a decision to give some of the money to a recipient in Turkey.

Before I left for the airport, I had the equivalent of $16 left in Turkish Lira.

Rather than exchange the money, I decided to ask my host to give the money to the next Couch Surfer as a gift from the Traveling Teacher 2010 project. It seemed fitting for me to end my trip in Turkey with a small token of generosity, since I received so much kindness throughout the month. I hope none of my benefactors objects.

That means that I am donating $143 dollars to the three charities - Doctors Without Borders, Catholic Relief Services, and Save the Children.

My friend Umit was right. I asked the universe for two things - benevolence in Turkey for a month and money left over for charity. She said I was very clear about what I wanted, and the universe responded.

One of my major beliefs about benevolence is that kindness leads to more kindness, just as evil leads to more evil. I will never be able to adequately express my gratitude to my donors for making my trip possible or to the Turks who showered me with love.

I am truly touched, and all of you have inspired me to give back a little something, as well.

In addition to the $143 left over for charity, I have decided to match the $554 in donations to Traveling Teacher with a donation of my own. This morning, I mailed the following checks - $234 to Doctors Without Borders; $233 to Catholic Relief Services; and $233 to Save the Children.

This trip was never about money. It was about benevolence. Both my donors and the Turks have taught me a great deal about generosity. Thanks for your example.

So, without knowing it ahead of time, each cent that people donated to Traveling Teacher 2010 achieved two purposes - it gave me an adventure of a lifetime, and hopefully, the money will also make life better for the people who will receive services from the three charitable organizations.

One of the lessons that I have learned from my trip is the power of kindness. I don't think I will ever be able to forget the man who walked a mile out of his way to help me find an address or the numerous bus drivers who made it their mission to make sure that I arrived at my destinations safely.

Another lesson that has sunk even deeper into my soul is that anything is possible. Before the trip, I believed it, but even I had to shake my head when I realized that half-way through my trip I had more money than what I had started with in America.

For years to come, I hope to draw upon this travel experience with my students, so that the next time someone tells me he can't go to college, I can share stories from my time in Turkey. Dreams do come true. I just finished a 30-day dream.

Finally, I've learned that we all need to raise our level of expectations. Far too often, we expect the minimal out of life and get it. This trip has shown me that there are limitless possibilities awaiting, if only we believe.

Back in August 2009, I launched my blog and told only six people because I wanted to see if the site would spread. I had no idea if anyone would ever read the blog. Yet, as of today, I've had more than 3,000 visits to the site from 39 U.S. states; 36 foreign countries; and two territories.

Back in August, I had no idea if anyone would ever donate a cent to my site. Less than a year later, I was flying into Istanbul with $350 in my pocket, an amount which eventually grew to $554.

Back in August, I had no idea how I would be treated if I ever made it overseas. Less than a year later, I found myself in the midst of the kindest group of people I have ever met.

Expectations, expectations, expectations. We all need to expect more.

As I'm writing this post, my now completed trip still seems like a dream. It's a dream that might never have happened.

In the past, I've sometimes shied away from new experiences and new opportunities due to fear, inconvenience, confusion, or any of a number of other reasons.

The day after I thought of the idea for Traveling Teacher 2010, I began to immediately question it. "It will never work.....People will think it's crazy...." We've all done it.

Fortunately, I spoke to a couple of people who encouraged me from the beginning. Otherwise, I might have spent the summer in Dalton, Georgia.

I've learned it is important who we share our dreams with because those people can either spur us on to new heights or crush our dreams.

I had my share of naysayers for this project. The week before I left for Turkey, I went to a party, where someone asked me what I planned to do during the summer.

That person had traveled extensively, including to Turkey, so I was surprised by his reaction to my planned trip.

"You won't survive more than two days," he said. He then added, "In the eyes of the Turks, you will be a walking dollar," and people will take advantage of you.

How far from the truth those statements were, but if I had listened to him early on in my decision-making process, I might never have launched the blog. Then, I never would have had the thrill of finding myself aboard a floating restaurant speaking at a Rotary Club meeting in Turkey.

Before I wrap this up, I want to thank several people. First, I would like to thank all of my benefactors. For whatever reason, you decided to open your wallets and send me money. You believed in this project and made my dream possible. I am humbled by your kindness and will forever be grateful.

Second, I would like to thank all of you who gave me emotional support both during the planning stages of my trip and the trip itself. I would especially like to thank my friend Joanie, who also bought my plane ticket, and my parents, who have given me nothing but encouragement for my endeavors over the years, no matter how unusual they might seem. I love you both.

Finally, I want to thank the amazing people of Turkey. In particular, I want to acknowledge my numerous hosts, including Aziz, Büşra, Deniz, Dicle, Gökhan, Jim, Mehmet, Onur, Özgür, Patricia, Recai, Reyhan, Serdar, Tuğça, Umit, and Yeşim.

Your kindness overwhelms me. I hope to live up to your examples in the future.

When I started this project, I wanted to demonstrate to my students and to my readers that people are basically good. After my month in Turkey, I am more convinced than ever that this is true. Perhaps, some of you after reading about the kindness of the Turks might have now arrived at the same conclusion.

In August, my students return to the classroom. This fall, I hope to share some of their reactions to my trip on my blog, but for now, I'm left with the same question that I asked my kids more than a year ago - "Could a person who had no money travel around the world relying on the generosity of strangers?"

I can wholeheartedly, and filled with gratitude, say that the answer to that question is an overwhelming- YES!

Back in America - July 13, 2010

It took me 25 hours of travel to get here, but as I write this post, I am back in America.

I will have much more to say tomorrow, but I wanted to leave you with my last incident of kindness from Turkey.

Anger doesn't work in airports. Still, I've seen many travelers try to get what they want with force.

This morning when I arrived to check in for my flight, I was hit by the prospect of a two-hour plus line to get my boarding pass. Hoping to find a kiosk, since I had no bags to check, I went to an information desk.

The man in front of me was playing the role of the "ugly American." For several minutes, he berated the woman at the desk. Eventually, she shut down and began to react negatively. I couldn't blame her.

When I approached the window, I was determined to create a different impression of Americans. I greeted the woman in Turkish. I asked her if she spoke English, using Turkish.

I explained that I had no baggage, but she apologized and told me I would still have to go through the line. I smiled, thanked her in Turkish and began to walk away.

Before I could take ten steps, a supervisor stopped me and sent me to a desk at the front of the line. Five minutes later, I was on my way to the gate.

As my friend Umit repeatedly told me, when we send kindness into the universe people often respond with kindness.

I'm not suggesting to use insincere displays to try to get things in life. That's odious and normally transparent. What I am suggesting is that the "ugly American" role is just that, ugly, and it creates an ugly impression of Americans.

Kindness is a lot more affective and makes life a lot more pleasant.

Sleep awaits. I will share more tomorrow.

Back in Asia - July 11, 2010

Yesterday, I spent the day on the European side of Istanbul. Today, after a 15-minute ferry ride, I am back in Asia staying with my friend Gökhan.

It seems fitting that I spend the last day with Gökhan. He was my first host in Turkey and after experiencing his hospitality, I left his home full of confidence that great things lay ahead over the next month. Even I underestimated just how much kindness would be awaiting me.

Today is a special day in Turkey and around the world. Later tonight, we will learn who is this year's World Cup champion in football (soccer). I will be camped out around the television like everyone else.

Tomorrow, I'll head back to the United States. I might not have time to write tomorrow, but I will have much more to say when I get back.

However, I will say this right now. I can't express how much I appreciate all of my benefactors for making this trip possible. Even after a month, sometimes it still feels like a dream. It never would have happened without your help.

I'll close now because some of Gökhan's friends will be coming over soon.

By the way, I think that the people of Spain will be dancing in the streets tonight after a win over the Netherlands. You heard it here first.

Farewell Bursa - July 10, 2010

After a second wonderful day in Bursa, I had to, with great sadness, return to Istanbul.

Bursa has a lot to offer - historical sites, numerous bazaars, Turkish baths, and fine restaurants, but the highlight of my visit to Bursa was meeting Mehmet, Yeşim, and their daughter Deniz.

Last night, the family took me to dinner with their friends. It was an evening of great food, laughter, and spirited discussions on a number of topics.

I cannot say enough about Mehmet's generosity. He wouldn't let me pay for anything in Bursa, and he even bought me a ticket on the highspeed ferry to Istanbul, so that I wouldn't have to take a much longer bus ride. I felt like I was a member of the family.

I am even more impressed by Mehmet and Yeşim's commitment to strengthening international understandings and international benevolence.

They both are actively involved in the Bursa-ULUDAG Rotary Club, as well CISV, which sets up cultural exchanges among children from all over the world.

Mehmet and Yeşim are already passing on this legacy to their daughter, who just returned from a trip to the Congo. As Mehmet put it, "Deniz was born into travel." I can think of no greater gift to give to one's children than a worldwide perspective of life.

Thanks, Mehmet for everything. I hope the next Rotary Club meeting we attend together will be in the United States.

Now, I'm back in Istanbul. My 30-day, 15-city, counterclockwise tour of Turkey is quickly drawing to an end.

Today, I decided to just check into a cheap hotel on Istanbul's European side and spend a leisurely day strolling through the streets.

I have only one important mission today - I am in search of Turkish pistachio nuts for my friend Joanie, who developed an addiction for them when she visited Turkey. Joanie, Mehmet gave me some insider information for the Spice Market.

Tomorrow, I have the privilege of spending my last evening in Turkey with my friend Gökhan, who hosted me my first four nights in Turkey. Then, it's back to the United States.

That's it for now. The Spice Market awaits.

One of My Best Days in Turkey - July 9, 2010

My visit to Bursa began with a grueling, 13-hour, cross-country bus ride from Sinop, but yesterday easily made up for it as I enjoyed one of my best days in Turkey.


Bursa is Turkey's fourth largest city and the center of the country's automotive and textile industry. On a map, look due south of Istanbul.


In addition to its current economic importance, Bursa is also known for its past. The first capital of the Ottoman Empire was located here in the 1400s. Yesterday, I went to tour some of the sites from that time period.


In the photo below, this might look like a tapestry on the wall in the Yeşil Mosque, but actually the wall is covered with hand-painted tiles.


The architecture here marked the beginning of a purely Turkish style that later spread across the Ottoman Empire.

Also, check out the exquisite tile work adorning the Yeşil tomb. The walls, too, are covered with tiles.

O.K., you might be thinking this is just an ordinary bridge.

Actually, it is only 1 of 4 bridges in the world with stores. The original from the 1400s was destroyed but eventually rebuilt.

Bursa's Ulucami (Great Mosque) also dates back from the 1400s.

One of my favorite things to do abroad is to walk through local markets. Some in Bursa are 700 years old.

My hosts in Bursa are Mehmet, his wife Yeşim, and their daughter Deniz.

They are not Couch Surfers. Instead, I met the family through a friend of a friend in America. Like all my other hosts in Turkey, the family made me feel welcome immediately.

In fact, when my bus from Sinop pulled into the station at 3:30 in the morning, Mehmet was waiting with a smile on his face.

After I did my sightseeing yesterday, Mehmet had a wonderful surprise - my first trip to a Turkish bath. In the picture, I am somewhere underneath all of those towels.

Here's how it works. A bather strips down and wraps himself or herself with a cloth (men and women bathe separately).

First, the bather goes into a marble-covered room....

where he dips a small pail into these basins lining the walls for water to lather up and rinse off.

Next, the bather goes into a type of steam room, which also contains basins with hotter water and a hot tub in the middle.

This part of the experience alone is exhilirating. but there's more.

Now, a bather walks into another room where an attendant, armed with a coarse cloth mitten, scrubs down the customer from head to toe, washes his or her hair, and repeatedly rinses the customer with soothing hot water.

It is an unbelievably relaxing sensation.

Finally, the bather is led to a meditation room, where he or she is toweled off by another attendant and left to soak in the atmosphere and listen to the hypnotic sounds of water bubbling out of a fountain. Beverages and food are available on request.

The Turkish bath is a centuries-old tradition, which the Turks picked up from the Byzantines, who got it from the Romans.

The Kervansaray bathhouse that I visited was renovated in 1389. No one is sure how many centuries it was in operation before then.

Do yourself a favor and experience at least one Turkish bath in your lifetime.

Later that evening, Mehmet and his family took me to a dinner meeting of the Bursa-ULUDAG Rotary Club. We dined aboard a ship that has been converted into a restaurant and hotel.

Once again, everyone welcomed me, as if I were a longtime member.

When I arrived, I was honored to be asked to speak at the meeting. With Deniz at my side translating, I shared the background of my trip and shared stories of the tremendous kindness I had experienced throughout Turkey.

Afterward, as I was savoring the fine food and relishing the fine company, the feeling surfaced once again about how truly lucky I am to have been invited into the lives of so many Turks.

This is why I travel. Sites are great, but I will forever treasure the memories of time I've spent with people around the globe, memories like the ones from last night with Mehmet's family at a Rotary Club meeting aboard a ship in Bursa.

I felt true joy.

Last night, I also thought back to a year and a half ago when I questioned whether I should set up my blog, for fear it might be a silly idea or might not work. Fortunately, I said "yes," which has led me on this magical journey through Turkey.

Many times, I've said "no" to new experiences life offered me, mainly out of fear, but this trip is teaching me that when we say "yes" it just might open up the door to a series of wonderful events beyond what we could have ever imagined.

Back In the West - July 8, 2010

I have safely arrived in Bursa, after a 13-hour overnight bus ride from Sinop.

I have a lot to share - sites of Bursa, wonderful hosts, and my first Turkish bath. I will update you as soon as possible, but now I am headed to a Rotary Club dinner.

It keeps getting better.

NOTE: I have now added my pictures from Amasya and Sinop to the post below. Also, I will update you on Bursa a little later in the day.

Mountains and the Black Sea - July 7, 2010

My journey north has come to an end at the shores of the Black Sea in the city of Sinop.

Sinop has been a port town for over a thousand years. These fortifications date back before the time of Christ.

Unlike some of the other waterfront areas I've visited, the pace of life in Sinop seems a little slower, and the area seems less developed. There are a lot of tourists, but most, if not all, appear to be from Turkey. It's scenery like this that keeps bringing people back year after year.

Sinop was the last stop of the day. Originally, I took a seven-hour, overnight bus from Kayseri going northeast to Amasya, a site also known for its beauty.

Amasya sits between two rocky ridges with a river running down the middle.

You might notice the holes in these rocks. They were once the tombs of rulers. Now all 18 have been removed.

In addition, there is a citadel perched high above the city,

...........and tourists also come here to see a group of restored Ottoman homes.

It's a great place to stroll with someone special.

While I was strolling, these two high school graduates stopped me because they thought I might speak English. Both plan to study English in college with hopes of becoming teachers, so they asked if I would mind speaking with them.

I felt honored to be giving something back to the Turkish people for a change. Since I couldn't find any formal volunteer work in Turkey, maybe my informal contribution is to help a few people with their conversational English, at least I'd like to think so.

After the chat, I jumped on a bus to travel two hours further north to the port city of Samsun, where I grabbed another four-hour bus north to Sinop.

Every overseas trip has a few long travel days. It's all part of the experience, but I forgot all about it that evening while enjoying the waterfront.

During the last bus ride, I sat next to a boy who couldn't get over the fact that I was from America. Throughout the trip, he kept asking me questions in Turkish, and I kept saying, "I don't understand," but that didn't dampen his enthusiasm or the rate of his questions. That's all part of the travel experience, too.

I am winding up my time in Sinop, and then I'll start heading back west.

That's it. I couldn't find any Couch Surfers here, so I stayed in my third hotel. Last night, I didn't mind because I needed some sleep.

I have to catch a bus in a couple of hours, so I will wrap this up. As always, thanks for reading my blog.

Financial Update

Expenses

Transportation = 251.80 Turkish Lira = $158.32 USD

Food = 106.79 Lira = $67.27 USD

Lodging = 95 Lira = $59.85 USD

VISA = 31.40 Lira = $20 USD

Ephesus Entrance = 20 Lira = $12.60 USD

Underground City = 15 Lira = $ 9.45 USD

Göreme Entrance = 15 Lira = $ 9.45 USD

Exchange Fees = 4.90 Lira = $ 3.08 USD

Internet Fees = 4.25 Lira = $ 2.67 USD

Total =543.64 Turkish Lira or $342.69 USD.

I've had no new donations. That means my total assets were $553.95 USD, and I have spent $342.69, so I have $211.26 left to spend over the next six days.

Turkish Riddle - July 6, 2010

Here's a riddle for you. I needed a seat on a night bus to Amasya. One seat was empty, but the clerk wouldn't sell it to me. Why?

Did I say something to offend him? Did he not like what I was wearing? Was he saving the seat for a friend?

No, in Turkey bus companies for long-distance routes can't sell a ticket to a man if he is unrelated to the woman in the seat next to him or vice versa. A woman already had the seat, so I was out of luck.

The measure is designed to prevent harrassment.

Fortunately, Aziz, my Couch Surfing host, was with me because he also was catching a bus, and he was able to find me the last empty seat on another bus.

In Turkish, Aziz means "saint," and he lived up to that name throughout my visit, especially tonight. Even though Aziz's bus was five minutes from leaving, he insisted on taking care of my needs first, at the risk of missing his own ride.

I've got a couple of hours to kill before my bus leaves, so I stopped into an internet cafe to write this post.

It's moments like this that I remember the most when traveling overseas. I'm 5000 miles from home in a Turkish bus station after midnight. I can't understand the language, and I'm all alone, but I'm happy.

Life seems exciting and full of endless possibilities. The next adventure awaits.

Eating Turkish Style - July 5, 2010

Many traditions have changed in Turkey, but Aziz and his other roommates, Dicle, Onur, and Tuğça, are trying to keep alive an ancient Turkish culinary practice.

For centuries, the Turks have eaten from communal platters while sitting on the floor.

Instead of separate plates, diners reach into the platters with forks or other utensils and eat the food directly. With lighter meals, the diners might place the food onto bread.

Many Turks still eat this way.

The philosophy behind the tradition is it is an act of sharing. The practice is certainly appropriate with Aziz because he and his rommates are some of the most generous people I have ever met.

It has taken me some getting used to eating off the platters, especially trying not to drop food, but it really is an intimate way to eat.

More Generosity

Yesterday, as I was returning to Kayseri, a woman struck up a conversation with me because she knew I was from abroad. Before she got off the bus, she invited me to have dinner with her and her family.

Normally, I would have gone, but I preferred to spend the evening with my friends. Still, I was touched by such an offer coming from a complete stranger.

Travel Update

In a few hours, I am leaving Kayseri on a night bus bound for Amasya, which is about 8 hours northeast of here. İf you've been keeping track of my path, I am continuing a counterclockwise circle through Turkey.

I'll update you as soon as I can. I know you probably get tired of reading it, but I can't express enough how much it means to me that you are reading my blog and sending me your comments. It makes home seem a lot closer.

Underground Turkey - July 4, 2010

This is what most people come to Cappadocia to see - Göreme.

I'm not sure how to describe it. The best I've come up with is the Flintstones on the moon.

Göreme is only 1.5 hours west of the industrial city Kayseri, but it might as well be on another planet.

During Roman and Byzantine times, Christianity flourished in the Cappadocian region from the 4th - 11th centuries.

When settlers arrived, they found this mysterious and awe-inspiring landscape and decided to chistle their homes and their churches into the volcanic rock and ash.

Several rock churches, like this one from the 10th century, contain frescoes depicting the life of Christ.

The Cappadocians also built an estimated 36 underground cities in the region, including the one I visited in the village of Derinkuyu.

The underground city is a seven-level maze of narrow, twisting passages and stairwells, which would be a claustrophobic's worst nightmare.

During peaceful times, the people lived above ground, but when enemies threatened, the inhabitants could go underground for up to six months, even bringing along livestock.

The cities were fortified. The residents could roll these massive stones to block the doorways and fight enemies through the hole that you can see in the center of the stone. There were also holes in the ceilings to pour hot oil on invaders.

Once underground, the inhabitants got fresh air through these ventilation shafts.

Caving is my passion, so I felt right at home hemmed in on all sides by the rock walls.

Today, a few people still live in the rock structures in Göreme, but many have left because of problems with deterioration. In recent years, hotel proprietors have stepped in and renovated the structures to give travelers like me a chance to sleep in a man-made cave for a night.

____________

As I write this post, I'm back in Kayseri. Aziz and Dicle and their other roommates are such wonderful people that I wanted to spend one last evening with them.

Tomorrow, I hope to begin heading north toward the Black Sea. Aziz suggested the route, and as with all of my prior destinations, I go where the universe tells me.

Before I close, I wanted to share something that Dicle mentioned while she was showing me around Kayseri. I asked her if it was obvious by my appearance that I was not Turkish.

She said "yes" that there were certain features that made me stand out, but she said the real thing that was different about me was that I am always smiling. "People aren't used to seeing that," she said.

Part of the reason I've been smiling a lot lately is that I am so happy to be in Turkey, but also I have been trying to heed the advice of what my friend Umit from Izmir told me.

She said the more positive energy we give off the more positive energy we attract. It's made me wonder what other good things we can all attract in our own lives by paying a little more attention to the messages and vibes were are sending others.

More Guardian Angels in Kayseri - July 2, 2010

The latest stop on my journey is Kayseri, a city with hundreds of years of history, as well as a thriving modern economy. Kayseri is in the Cappadocia region of Turkey in the middle part of the country.

As you can see in the background of the mosque, the scenic seaside has now been replaced by equally scenic rolling hills and mountains.

Today, Dicle, a friend of my host, showed me around the city. Dicle is standing in front of the walls of a citadel, which were originally built in the 6th century and repaired in the 1200s.

Dicle was a great, enthusiastic guide and a charming companion for an afternoon.

Dicle and Aziz are my latest Coach Surfing hosts. Both are studying astronomy. Aziz describes himself as a "mad scientist" who also enjoys acting. Although Aziz is extremely busy right now preparing for a journey of his own, he still graciously agreed to host me.

I have enjoyed his intellect and our engaging conversations.

Aziz told me he enjoys Couch Surfing because, "My life is based on sharing. I like to share everything, including my couch."

As for my project, he said, "In every human being there is good and evil, but I think the good is more dominant. I have a strong belief that one day it will come out, and we will have peace everywhere."

Kayseri isn't as much of a tourist town, so I drew some strange looks throughout the day. My favorite encounter was with these little girls. When they heard Dicle and I speaking English, they came running. One of the girls told Dicle that she had never heard a human speaking English before. The girls insisted I speak English over and over again, much to their delight.

I had to share my latest benevolent encounter. When I arrived in Kayseri, Aziz had his cell phone off because he had a bad headache and needed a few minutes of sleep. A representative with the bus company let me borrow his phone to call, but when Aziz didn't answer I got a little nervous.

Then, several of my guardian angels took over. A bus employee led me to a waiting area, where we got through to Aziz. Next, the representative walked me to a shuttle bus, where the driver took over, insisting I sit next to him.

About 30 minutes later, he showed me where to get off the shuttle, but I still wasn't sure where Aziz lived.

I asked a man in front of a store for help. The man must have walked a mile with me, stopping several times to ask for directions.

Finally, we came to a bakery, where we called Aziz. My guardian angel on the left wasn't at all annoyed. In fact, he acted like I did him a favor. That's Turkey. That's my latest example of why the world is good.

Tomorrow, I am journeying about an hour to Göreme, home to some out-of-this-world stone structures. I'll tell you about it in a day or two.

Until then, thanks for reading my blog, and Dicle and Aziz thanks again for your kindness.

Newspaper Story Update

O.K., here is the newspaper story I told you about, assuming you can read Turkish.

Financial Update

New Donations

June 22 = 20 Turkish Lira = $12.60

June 22 = $52.75 - 1.83 (PayPal fee) = $50.92

June 23 = $20 - 0.88 (PayPal fee) = $19.12

June 25 = $100 - 3.20 (PayPal fee) = $96.80

June 29 = $25.00 - 1.03 (Pay Pal fee) = $23.97

Total Donations = $203.41

Expenses

Transportation = 161.55 Turkish Lira = $101.77

Food = 81.54 Turkish Lira = $51.37

VISA (to enter Turkey) = $20.00

Lodging = 30 Turkish Lira = $18.90

Ephesus Entrance = 20 Turkish Lira = $12.60

Exchange Fees = 3.90 Turkish Lira = $2.49

Internet Fees = 2 Turkish Lira = $1.26

Total Expenses = $208.14

That means I have $345.81 left to spend over the last 10 days of my trip. It is looking more and more like the universe will respond to both my dreams - spending a month in Turkey and having money left over for charity. Incredible!