For the first time in weeks, I actually found a guest house with computers, in addition to WiFi, so I thought I would take the time to write a short entry.
Tomorrow, I am going to check out Angkor. Apparently, there is so much to see that I'll be here at least a couple of days. It will be good to settle down in one place for a little while.
Often, people say, "Oh, it must be so relaxing to backpack through a country." There is nothing I'd rather do in the summer, but I would not describe it as relaxing. It's enjoyable, and at times relaxing, but it's also a very draining endeavor getting from Point A to Point B, not knowing the language and not knowing what is waiting when one gets off the bus. It's a treat to stop for three days, unpack my sack, and not have to worry about getting on a bus.
In the last day or two, I've met some characters, most notably a guy from the Bronx in New York City. He and his wife have been traveling for decades, and they even decided to retire in New Zealand. The guy was a bit cantankerous at points, especially when he went into a long diatribe about how civilization would have been a lot better had there been no Southern presidents, on both sides of the aisle, but he gave me some helpful travel tips. By the way, he said the only reason he decided to help me was because I was born in Pittsburgh.
Before walking way, he said that he had had about enough of the backpacking thing. "So you are ready to give up traveling," I said. To which he replied, "Hell, no! I'm just going to start staying in some nicer places." This was coming from a man in his 70s. It sure gave me hope that traveling doesn't have to stop because of one's age, even more unconventional travel.
By the way, Robert, he said the only place he'll never return to is India, where he once traveled for seven months. "I think that place changed my DNA," he said.
You all know how I feel regarding my perception that most people are good and will go to great lengths to demonstrate it if given the chance. I've had a couple of such incidents over the last week.
A few days ago, I rode in a tuk-tuk, along with about 10 other people, to a guest house that I wanted to check out in Laos. When I left, I forgot my umbrella. Now, normally that wouldn't be a big deal, except that I haven't come across the collapsible, portable umbrellas that I own during my travels.
I laughed and told the owner of the guest house that I left it on the tuk-tuk. "No problem," he replied. "I know the driver."
He made a call, and the next morning, the owner of the guest house jumped on his motorcycle and retrieved it for me from his friend.
Can you imagine that happening in America?
This morning, something similar happened to me. After I bought my bus ticket, I had about 45 minutes to spare, just enough time to visit the adjacent market and get some breakfast.
I decided on chicken, mixed vegetables, and rice, rather than my normal soup selection. The food was being served from a small cart, and the cook had set up a few tables on the street. Whenever a seat was vacant, someone sat down at one of the tables, but I couldn't find a seat and didn't want to be too aggressive. You would have thought I was some kind of celebrity because the cook and her friend pushed through a mass of customers until they found me a place to sit down and eat.
As I was leaving, a man yelled out, "Stop! Stop!" At least, that's what I thought he was saying because, after all, I don't know Cambodian. "What social faux pas have I committed now," I thought. Keep in mind I've already dragged a monk into the river.
The man bolted up to me and handed me a full bottle of water I'd purchased for the trip that I had mistakenly left behind.
Now, both of these incidents might not sound like much, but they are especially meaningful to someone 10,000 miles from home who has no contacts, can't speak a word of the language of those around him, and knows little about the cultural expectations and norms.
I consider myself to be a fairly self-sufficient, seasoned traveler, but at times, I can be a bit helpless. A couple of days ago, I couldn't cross the street. That's right. I couldn't cross the street. It was rush hour, and there was just so much traffic in the capital - cars, tuk-tuks, buses, motorcycles. I didn't see any possibility of getting across.
After standing there for a few minutes, a crossing guard, who I think was there for kids, walked out into traffic and assisted me because the veteran traveler couldn't make his way to the other side of the street.
Actually, I've heard the traffic is even more chaotic in Ho Chi Minh City in Vietnam.
It's got to be obvious to those in Thailand, Laos, Cambodia, or any other country, that travelers, at times, need a hand. It's extremely gratifying to be a beneficiary of such acts of kindness.
I'm tired. It's been a long day, so I'll close. As always, I'll be in touch.
Saturday, June 29, 2013
Friday, June 28, 2013
A Birthday Abroad - June 28, 2013
I can't remember the last time I celebrated a birthday at home. Mine happens to fall in the middle of summer vacation, so each June 28th I normally find myself in some foreign locale. This time I'm in Phnom Penh, the capital of Cambodia.
Today, I recognized my 48th with a breakfast of my favorite, noodle soup, and I treated myself to a nice dinner.
I tried Cambodian pancakes, which is not at all how it sounds. The "pancake" is a type of thin, rice puff pastry filled with pork, bean sprouts, and cucumbers. The entry also consists of a plate of large lettuce leaves, basil, and more cucumbers.
I had no idea how to eat it, so I asked the waiter for help. The idea is to break off a section of the meat-filled pancake, put it on top of the lettuce leaf, and add basil and cucumbers to one's liking. Then the diner dunks the packed leaf into a solution of soy sauce mixed with peanuts and other seasonings. It was fabulous. Mom, don't worry. I'm stuffed every day and getting my vegetables.
Phnom Penh seems to encapsulate the ever changing, painful, political and economic reality of the country over the last 60 years.
It's been a rough ride for Cambodia, to say the least. From 1884 until gaining its independence in 1953, Cambodia was a French colony. By all accounts, the French did little to develop the region.
In 1969, the United States began secretly carpet bombing Cambodia during the Vietnam War in an attempt to slow the flow of North Vietnamese supplies into South Vietnam. When the bombing finally stopped four years later, more than half a million people lay dead.
By the way, Cambodia wasn't the only neighboring country to suffer widespread bombing. In 1964, the U.S. also began secretly bombing Laos to try to break the supply lines of the Viet Cong through Laos to South Vietnam via the Ho Chi Minh Trail. That bombing earned Laos the notorious distinction of being the most bombed country per capita in the world.
Personally, I still can't understand why the United States got involved militarily in the region. The domino effect never made sense to me, but this blog isn't meant to debate the merits of the war. Still, I wanted to give some historical perspective because Southeast Asia can't be understood without it.
Under these past circumstances, I might, as an American, expect to receive a less than warm welcome in both Laos and Cambodia, but it has been just the opposite. Fortunately, in my travels, I've found that people do a remarkable job of separating visitors from the actions of their governments.
Things got even worse for Cambodia in 1975 when the Khmer Rouge, under the leadership of Pol Pot, seized power and set upon a course of genocide. After the 44-month reign of terror ended, an estimated one million people were executed. Some put the number much higher. This death toll is even more shocking considering that the population at the time was 7 million.
If these events weren't bad enough, Vietnam invaded the country in 1978. Next, the country endured a civil war throughout the 1980s and in 1998, there was a coup.
Phnom Pehn especially felt the brunt of many of these events. The capital has always been an important commercial center. The population swelled during the first Indochina War and then surged again during the 1970s as Cambodians fled the countryside because of the U.S. bombings and guerrilla warfare.
By 1975, the population of the capital stood at two million people, but then Phnom Pehn became a virtual ghost town when Pol Pot emptied the city, forcing most of the population into the countryside. Recently, I read that the population is just now back to about one million.
Against such a backdrop, it's easy to understand why it has been so difficult for Cambodia to develop economically and develop an infrastructure.
The gulf between the rich and poor was obvious in Kratie. It is even more apparent here in Phnom Penh. There are skyscrapers, but there are also homeless people begging on the streets and shanties leading into town. Tonight, for the first time during my trip, the owner of the hotel where I am staying said if I wanted to get out after dark and walk very far away from the hotel, "There will be a problem." Unfortunately, that seems to be the case in many capitals.
A couple of days ago, I wrote that I felt that Kratie and Cambodia in general has a frontier-town mentality. Last night, I was speaking to a Spanish man who runs a restaurant, who agreed with my observation.
He described himself as someone of modest means who decided to give it a shot in Cambodia. Since the country is trying to develop economically and there isn't an overabundance of regulation, he said it's fairly easy for someone to chart his or her course without interference from the government or police.
However, as it is across the planet, life is still very difficult for those on the lower end of the economic ladder, struggling to merely get by. For them, Cambodia isn't necessarily a land of opportunity.
At the same time, little regulation results in problems like sewage in the streets, a lack of medical care and other basic services, and widespread corruption.
O.K., enough of the the background. I just don't want to give the impression that Southeast Asia is Disney Land. There are many problems here, just as there are around the world, including my own country. Really, I am just a teacher trying to see a little bit of the world and share my experiences and observations.
I thoroughly enjoyed my time in Kratie. My hotel was next to the central market, which was buzzing with activity from dawn till dusk.
I had an amusing encounter with one of the merchants. I wanted to exchange my remaining Laotian money, but no one would take it. Finally, I found a guy willing to do it. We communicated by punching numbers into a calculator. Really, he was doing me a favor changing it in the first place, but the rate was terrible.
I enjoy horse trading, so we went back and forth in a good spirited manner, although we couldn't understand a word between us. Finally, I got across the point that the rate was much better in Laos. He smiled, made a motion like he was riding a motorcycle, and pointed north.
Immediately, I understood and burst out laughing. I think he was saying if the exchange rate was so good in Laos then I should jump on my motorcycle and go back there.
With that, he also began laughing, gave me a slightly better rate, and we concluded the deal, mainly on his terms. As I've told people before, I remember encounters long after I've forgotten sites.
Speaking of sites, tomorrow, I plan to head west to Angkor to see the remains of one of the world's greatest ancient civilizations. Tonight, I'm just relaxing before the bus trip.
I appreciate all of you reading my blog. Thanks for your e-mails and your words of encouragement. As always, I'll be in touch.
Today, I recognized my 48th with a breakfast of my favorite, noodle soup, and I treated myself to a nice dinner.
I tried Cambodian pancakes, which is not at all how it sounds. The "pancake" is a type of thin, rice puff pastry filled with pork, bean sprouts, and cucumbers. The entry also consists of a plate of large lettuce leaves, basil, and more cucumbers.
I had no idea how to eat it, so I asked the waiter for help. The idea is to break off a section of the meat-filled pancake, put it on top of the lettuce leaf, and add basil and cucumbers to one's liking. Then the diner dunks the packed leaf into a solution of soy sauce mixed with peanuts and other seasonings. It was fabulous. Mom, don't worry. I'm stuffed every day and getting my vegetables.
Phnom Penh seems to encapsulate the ever changing, painful, political and economic reality of the country over the last 60 years.
It's been a rough ride for Cambodia, to say the least. From 1884 until gaining its independence in 1953, Cambodia was a French colony. By all accounts, the French did little to develop the region.
In 1969, the United States began secretly carpet bombing Cambodia during the Vietnam War in an attempt to slow the flow of North Vietnamese supplies into South Vietnam. When the bombing finally stopped four years later, more than half a million people lay dead.
By the way, Cambodia wasn't the only neighboring country to suffer widespread bombing. In 1964, the U.S. also began secretly bombing Laos to try to break the supply lines of the Viet Cong through Laos to South Vietnam via the Ho Chi Minh Trail. That bombing earned Laos the notorious distinction of being the most bombed country per capita in the world.
Personally, I still can't understand why the United States got involved militarily in the region. The domino effect never made sense to me, but this blog isn't meant to debate the merits of the war. Still, I wanted to give some historical perspective because Southeast Asia can't be understood without it.
Under these past circumstances, I might, as an American, expect to receive a less than warm welcome in both Laos and Cambodia, but it has been just the opposite. Fortunately, in my travels, I've found that people do a remarkable job of separating visitors from the actions of their governments.
Things got even worse for Cambodia in 1975 when the Khmer Rouge, under the leadership of Pol Pot, seized power and set upon a course of genocide. After the 44-month reign of terror ended, an estimated one million people were executed. Some put the number much higher. This death toll is even more shocking considering that the population at the time was 7 million.
If these events weren't bad enough, Vietnam invaded the country in 1978. Next, the country endured a civil war throughout the 1980s and in 1998, there was a coup.
Phnom Pehn especially felt the brunt of many of these events. The capital has always been an important commercial center. The population swelled during the first Indochina War and then surged again during the 1970s as Cambodians fled the countryside because of the U.S. bombings and guerrilla warfare.
By 1975, the population of the capital stood at two million people, but then Phnom Pehn became a virtual ghost town when Pol Pot emptied the city, forcing most of the population into the countryside. Recently, I read that the population is just now back to about one million.
Against such a backdrop, it's easy to understand why it has been so difficult for Cambodia to develop economically and develop an infrastructure.
The gulf between the rich and poor was obvious in Kratie. It is even more apparent here in Phnom Penh. There are skyscrapers, but there are also homeless people begging on the streets and shanties leading into town. Tonight, for the first time during my trip, the owner of the hotel where I am staying said if I wanted to get out after dark and walk very far away from the hotel, "There will be a problem." Unfortunately, that seems to be the case in many capitals.
A couple of days ago, I wrote that I felt that Kratie and Cambodia in general has a frontier-town mentality. Last night, I was speaking to a Spanish man who runs a restaurant, who agreed with my observation.
He described himself as someone of modest means who decided to give it a shot in Cambodia. Since the country is trying to develop economically and there isn't an overabundance of regulation, he said it's fairly easy for someone to chart his or her course without interference from the government or police.
However, as it is across the planet, life is still very difficult for those on the lower end of the economic ladder, struggling to merely get by. For them, Cambodia isn't necessarily a land of opportunity.
At the same time, little regulation results in problems like sewage in the streets, a lack of medical care and other basic services, and widespread corruption.
O.K., enough of the the background. I just don't want to give the impression that Southeast Asia is Disney Land. There are many problems here, just as there are around the world, including my own country. Really, I am just a teacher trying to see a little bit of the world and share my experiences and observations.
I thoroughly enjoyed my time in Kratie. My hotel was next to the central market, which was buzzing with activity from dawn till dusk.
I had an amusing encounter with one of the merchants. I wanted to exchange my remaining Laotian money, but no one would take it. Finally, I found a guy willing to do it. We communicated by punching numbers into a calculator. Really, he was doing me a favor changing it in the first place, but the rate was terrible.
I enjoy horse trading, so we went back and forth in a good spirited manner, although we couldn't understand a word between us. Finally, I got across the point that the rate was much better in Laos. He smiled, made a motion like he was riding a motorcycle, and pointed north.
Immediately, I understood and burst out laughing. I think he was saying if the exchange rate was so good in Laos then I should jump on my motorcycle and go back there.
With that, he also began laughing, gave me a slightly better rate, and we concluded the deal, mainly on his terms. As I've told people before, I remember encounters long after I've forgotten sites.
Speaking of sites, tomorrow, I plan to head west to Angkor to see the remains of one of the world's greatest ancient civilizations. Tonight, I'm just relaxing before the bus trip.
I appreciate all of you reading my blog. Thanks for your e-mails and your words of encouragement. As always, I'll be in touch.
Wednesday, June 26, 2013
Greetings from Cambodia - June 26, 2013
Sorry for my tardiness at posting. Wi Fi is everywhere, but that doesn't do me much good since I am not traveling with a computer. Some day, I might take the plunge, but the thought of traveling with a laptop or tablet in my backpack is not very appealing. Sometimes it is a little harder to find a computer, which is the reason for the delay.
Anyway, I am currently in the port town of Kratie in Northern Cambodia. It seems like a rough and tumble place where anything goes, the kind of place I like. During the civil war in the 1980s, this section of the country was cut off from the capital, so I think it developed its own way of doing things.
Already, I notice a difference between Cambodia and Laos in terms of the infrastructure. In Laos, the main highway is usually two lanes, and it is in decent shape. Here, there are also two lanes, but every mile or so there is an unpaved section with gigantic pot holes, which reminded me of Haiti. In essence, there is just one lane because only one car can pass at a time.
Earlier today, the bus kept gingerly driving through the holes. At times, I thought the bus was going to tip over. Finally, we came to the mother of all pot holes. One of the assistant drivers jumped out to provide guidance. We made it about half-way through when there was a loud scratching noise, and......we managed to rip off the bumper
So, did we wait for help to arrive? Nope. We were in the middle of nowhere. Who was going to come? The drivers just loaded the bumper in the bus, and we took off.
By the way, as an aside, I love the system of restroom breaks on the road. Every hour or two, the driver pulls over and both men and women find a private place in the woods. It really is easier.
The other difference between Laos and Cambodia is it seems like people are even more laid back than Laos, which is hard to believe, and, as I've already said, anything goes. I guess after all the struggles Cambodia has gone through in the last 40 or so years the people have had to develop a sense of acceptance and rolling with the punches. Keep in mind that fighting in one sort or another was going on here until almost the year 2000.
Once again, as in Thailand and Laos, the people seem really amazing. When I got off the bus, I found a room, and I needed to find an ATM. The easiest and safest way to access money is through an ATM, which spits out money in the local currency.
The owner of the hotel, after I had already agreed to stay, took me to his tuk-tuk, which is basically a motorcycle attached to a cage for passengers, put his toddler daughter in my lap, and we were off to the bank. It was one of my travel moments that make trips all worth it. I wish you could have seen me buzzing through traffic with this little girl on my lap.
Unlike the other countries I've visited in Southeast Asia, here in Kratie, the machines give only dollars, so I then had to find an exchange house. Once again, the man zipped me off in his tuk-tuk. He didn't charge me a dime.
As with Laos, I've been here only a few hours, and already I am in love with Cambodia.
In an effort to catch you up on Laos, I left the wet monk in Vang Vieng and headed south toward the capital, Vientiane, where I made a short stop; afterward, I made a loop in a southeast direction through Thakheck, Pakse and Campasak, which is one of the most southerly cities in Laos.
Campasak is a small town on the banks of the Mekong River. Hey, I entered Laos by crossing the Mekong, so it seemed fitting to end my trip there. Yesterday, I rented a bicycle and toured around all day. I managed to find a dirt road through the rice fields and spent a couple of hours watching the farmers work. They seemed surprised that a tourist was riding along the road.,
I continue to have great luck traveling. This morning, I jumped on a tuk-tuk in Campasak, not thinking I could make the morning bus to Cambodia, but it was running late. I even had time for a quick breakfast. A woman was selling some kind of meat on a stick in the market. I bought what I thought was chicken but was actually fish. It was quite good. I guess there's no better way to start the day than with grilled fish on a stick.
At the border, there were no questions, and no one looked at my stuff. I just paid my $25 for the visa and was waved through.
The only difficulty was again getting immigration to teach me my two favorite expressions - "hello" and "thank you" in Cambodian, and the border agents took everyone's temperature. I've heard of that in China, but I had never been through it. I wonder what would have happened if someone was running a fever.
I really like it here in the port town, which, you guessed it, is located on the Mekong River, meaning I'll stay a couple of days. Then, I'll be heading south to the capital, Phnom Penh.
Before I forget, I wanted to wish my mom and dad a happy anniversary. I could not have been any more blessed to have two such wonderful parents.
O.K., I'm getting hungry, so I'll wrap up for the evening. I'm continuing to have a great time. I can't believe I've been here now three weeks. I'll be in touch.
Anyway, I am currently in the port town of Kratie in Northern Cambodia. It seems like a rough and tumble place where anything goes, the kind of place I like. During the civil war in the 1980s, this section of the country was cut off from the capital, so I think it developed its own way of doing things.
Already, I notice a difference between Cambodia and Laos in terms of the infrastructure. In Laos, the main highway is usually two lanes, and it is in decent shape. Here, there are also two lanes, but every mile or so there is an unpaved section with gigantic pot holes, which reminded me of Haiti. In essence, there is just one lane because only one car can pass at a time.
Earlier today, the bus kept gingerly driving through the holes. At times, I thought the bus was going to tip over. Finally, we came to the mother of all pot holes. One of the assistant drivers jumped out to provide guidance. We made it about half-way through when there was a loud scratching noise, and......we managed to rip off the bumper
So, did we wait for help to arrive? Nope. We were in the middle of nowhere. Who was going to come? The drivers just loaded the bumper in the bus, and we took off.
By the way, as an aside, I love the system of restroom breaks on the road. Every hour or two, the driver pulls over and both men and women find a private place in the woods. It really is easier.
The other difference between Laos and Cambodia is it seems like people are even more laid back than Laos, which is hard to believe, and, as I've already said, anything goes. I guess after all the struggles Cambodia has gone through in the last 40 or so years the people have had to develop a sense of acceptance and rolling with the punches. Keep in mind that fighting in one sort or another was going on here until almost the year 2000.
Once again, as in Thailand and Laos, the people seem really amazing. When I got off the bus, I found a room, and I needed to find an ATM. The easiest and safest way to access money is through an ATM, which spits out money in the local currency.
The owner of the hotel, after I had already agreed to stay, took me to his tuk-tuk, which is basically a motorcycle attached to a cage for passengers, put his toddler daughter in my lap, and we were off to the bank. It was one of my travel moments that make trips all worth it. I wish you could have seen me buzzing through traffic with this little girl on my lap.
Unlike the other countries I've visited in Southeast Asia, here in Kratie, the machines give only dollars, so I then had to find an exchange house. Once again, the man zipped me off in his tuk-tuk. He didn't charge me a dime.
As with Laos, I've been here only a few hours, and already I am in love with Cambodia.
In an effort to catch you up on Laos, I left the wet monk in Vang Vieng and headed south toward the capital, Vientiane, where I made a short stop; afterward, I made a loop in a southeast direction through Thakheck, Pakse and Campasak, which is one of the most southerly cities in Laos.
Campasak is a small town on the banks of the Mekong River. Hey, I entered Laos by crossing the Mekong, so it seemed fitting to end my trip there. Yesterday, I rented a bicycle and toured around all day. I managed to find a dirt road through the rice fields and spent a couple of hours watching the farmers work. They seemed surprised that a tourist was riding along the road.,
I continue to have great luck traveling. This morning, I jumped on a tuk-tuk in Campasak, not thinking I could make the morning bus to Cambodia, but it was running late. I even had time for a quick breakfast. A woman was selling some kind of meat on a stick in the market. I bought what I thought was chicken but was actually fish. It was quite good. I guess there's no better way to start the day than with grilled fish on a stick.
At the border, there were no questions, and no one looked at my stuff. I just paid my $25 for the visa and was waved through.
The only difficulty was again getting immigration to teach me my two favorite expressions - "hello" and "thank you" in Cambodian, and the border agents took everyone's temperature. I've heard of that in China, but I had never been through it. I wonder what would have happened if someone was running a fever.
I really like it here in the port town, which, you guessed it, is located on the Mekong River, meaning I'll stay a couple of days. Then, I'll be heading south to the capital, Phnom Penh.
Before I forget, I wanted to wish my mom and dad a happy anniversary. I could not have been any more blessed to have two such wonderful parents.
O.K., I'm getting hungry, so I'll wrap up for the evening. I'm continuing to have a great time. I can't believe I've been here now three weeks. I'll be in touch.
Sunday, June 23, 2013
Activities Galore - Vang Vieng, Laos - June 23
It's been a super last couple of days in Vang Vieng.
The town itself isn't much, but it is next to a raging river, which is framed by 1,000-foot, jagged, limestone cliffs, covered by dense jungle, and where there is limestone, there are caves.
Yesterday, I did a tubing trip down the river, which was quite scenic and quite refreshing. The sun was down that day, adding to the enjoyment, but about half way through, a thunder storm blew in out of no where. I didn't mind the rain, but I could have done without the thunder and lightning.
At the end of the trip, I had to maneuver my tube to shore, which wasn't happening because of the rapids and swift current. The next thing I knew a small kid dove in the water and pulled me to shore. Apparently, the kids do it for tips. I was happy to contribute.
Later in the day, I checked out three caves. At the last one, there was a small lagoon outside the mouth of one of the caves. It's a popular swimming spot, so I couldn't resist. I tried to swim into the cave, but the current was so strong that I was able to only go a few feet before being blown back out.
After a few minutes, a group of young monks showed up in a nearby field for some outdoor meditation. At one point, two of the monks walked over to where I had just gotten out of the water and struck up a conversation with their limited English.
Eventually, one of the monks asked if he could take my picture with his camera. This would have been the perfect shot for me, as well, but the batteries in my camera happened to die. Anyway, the monk with the camera was up on shore, and the other monk crawled onto the rocks by the river.
He asked me to swim out to the rocks, which I did. By this point, dozens of younger monks were watching from a bridge over the river.
At one point, the monk on the rocks reached down and grabbed my hand to help me up on the for the picture. As he was lifting me, he slipped, and I pulled him headfirst into the water.
Now, I'm not sure of the cultural significance of pulling a monk into the water. They are highly revered, so I assume it wasn't good. I was extremely embarrassed, but they said it was O.K. Still, I cringed. It would be like pulling a priest into the river while he was wearing his vestments.
Later that night, I went to the monastery to, again, apologize, but they didn't seem to be overly offended.
Today, I had planned on visiting more caves, but it's been raining heavily non stop since this morning. Instead, I will use this as a day to relax, which is always welcome.
Tomorrow, I am headed to the capital of Laos, Vientiane. While there, I have to decide whether to keep heading south and go into Cambodia, or I might take a bus up to Hanoi in Vietnam and loop back through Cambodia later. Decisions, decisions, decisions.
Often, people ask me if I get lonely traveling alone, but I have met lots of interesting people from around the world. Most are younger, but I have met some my age and older. I guess backpacking never has to end.
I continue to have a great time. I'll be in touch.
The town itself isn't much, but it is next to a raging river, which is framed by 1,000-foot, jagged, limestone cliffs, covered by dense jungle, and where there is limestone, there are caves.
Yesterday, I did a tubing trip down the river, which was quite scenic and quite refreshing. The sun was down that day, adding to the enjoyment, but about half way through, a thunder storm blew in out of no where. I didn't mind the rain, but I could have done without the thunder and lightning.
At the end of the trip, I had to maneuver my tube to shore, which wasn't happening because of the rapids and swift current. The next thing I knew a small kid dove in the water and pulled me to shore. Apparently, the kids do it for tips. I was happy to contribute.
Later in the day, I checked out three caves. At the last one, there was a small lagoon outside the mouth of one of the caves. It's a popular swimming spot, so I couldn't resist. I tried to swim into the cave, but the current was so strong that I was able to only go a few feet before being blown back out.
After a few minutes, a group of young monks showed up in a nearby field for some outdoor meditation. At one point, two of the monks walked over to where I had just gotten out of the water and struck up a conversation with their limited English.
Eventually, one of the monks asked if he could take my picture with his camera. This would have been the perfect shot for me, as well, but the batteries in my camera happened to die. Anyway, the monk with the camera was up on shore, and the other monk crawled onto the rocks by the river.
He asked me to swim out to the rocks, which I did. By this point, dozens of younger monks were watching from a bridge over the river.
At one point, the monk on the rocks reached down and grabbed my hand to help me up on the for the picture. As he was lifting me, he slipped, and I pulled him headfirst into the water.
Now, I'm not sure of the cultural significance of pulling a monk into the water. They are highly revered, so I assume it wasn't good. I was extremely embarrassed, but they said it was O.K. Still, I cringed. It would be like pulling a priest into the river while he was wearing his vestments.
Later that night, I went to the monastery to, again, apologize, but they didn't seem to be overly offended.
Today, I had planned on visiting more caves, but it's been raining heavily non stop since this morning. Instead, I will use this as a day to relax, which is always welcome.
Tomorrow, I am headed to the capital of Laos, Vientiane. While there, I have to decide whether to keep heading south and go into Cambodia, or I might take a bus up to Hanoi in Vietnam and loop back through Cambodia later. Decisions, decisions, decisions.
Often, people ask me if I get lonely traveling alone, but I have met lots of interesting people from around the world. Most are younger, but I have met some my age and older. I guess backpacking never has to end.
I continue to have a great time. I'll be in touch.
Thursday, June 20, 2013
Luang Prabang, Laos - June 20, 2013
Yesterday, I spoke too soon. This morning, I awoke to the sound of rain pounding against the tin roof of my guest house. I couldn't wait to get dressed and bolt out on the balcony to enjoy the refreshing liquid falling from the sky, bringing with it a noticeable drop in the temperature. For the next three hours, the rain came down non stop.
One of my best purchases for this trip was a good umbrella, so the weather didn't at all slow me down. I headed out in the down pour to partake of one of my favorite meals, and one of the most popular dishes in Laos, soup.
The Laotians seem to eat soup at all times of the day. When a diner orders it, he or she is given a huge bowl filled with thick noodles and some kind of meat, often chicken or pork. Then, a plate of vegetables is placed in front of the diner. In this case, I was given bean sprouts, some kind of green beans, and a mound of fresh mint leaves and fresh basil. The diner then throws the vegetables into the soup and spices the soup in the manner that he or she likes. It's quite filling, delicious, and nutritious.
After breakfast, I spent the day touring Luang Prabang, which is nestled on the banks of the Mekong. The city is designated as a UNESCO World Heritage, in part because of the number of temples here and also, I think, because of the French colonial architecture.
Tonight, I am headed to a popular night market. I just can't get enough of markets. Tomorrow, I think I am traveling south to Vang Vieng. There is just so much to see and so little time. I hope to relax for three or four days in Vang Vieng because there are a lot of water activities and caves, which, as you all know, is my passion.
The Laotian people are wonderful, but the other day, I got a reminder that travelers can't get too enamored by the surroundings and become careless. During the two-day boat ride when we spent the night in the village, a woman I met left about $100 dollars and her i-phone next to her first-floor window. When she returned later in the evening, someone had reached through the security bars and taken it. Fortunately, she had her passport and credit cards on her person.
Before my summer trip each year, my father often reminds me that even though I've traveled overseas for decades I need to be careful. The incident this week was a good reminder to me. It's annoying having to carry around my valuables in my sweaty money belt, but the alternative is far worse.
By the way, Joanie, thanks for the mosquito sheets. They really come in handy when I want to put some repellent on and don't have soap and water to rinse my hands afterward.
My two-part mantra in Southeast Asia has become if it is exposed cover it, which means sunscreen and insect repellent. For the first week or two, I had gotten lax with the repellent until I met a teacher in northern Thailand who told me that malaria does happen in the north, and I needed to lather up.
The other part of the mantra is if it's empty fill it, which means eating enough food, and more importantly, drinking enough water. Back in Nicaragua, I learned the hard way the dangers of dehydration.
I got so dehydrated traveling that I literally couldn't get out of bed, so the owner of the hotel where I was staying bought me some orange juice, and I drank it until I worked up enough energy to get back to my guest home in Guatemala. I'm trying to make sure that never happens again, but some days I feel like my kidneys are going to float.
That's enough for one night.
I hope all is well back in the United States. Everything is great here. Be patient with my posts because I often have to write them rather quickly in internet cafes.
One of my best purchases for this trip was a good umbrella, so the weather didn't at all slow me down. I headed out in the down pour to partake of one of my favorite meals, and one of the most popular dishes in Laos, soup.
The Laotians seem to eat soup at all times of the day. When a diner orders it, he or she is given a huge bowl filled with thick noodles and some kind of meat, often chicken or pork. Then, a plate of vegetables is placed in front of the diner. In this case, I was given bean sprouts, some kind of green beans, and a mound of fresh mint leaves and fresh basil. The diner then throws the vegetables into the soup and spices the soup in the manner that he or she likes. It's quite filling, delicious, and nutritious.
After breakfast, I spent the day touring Luang Prabang, which is nestled on the banks of the Mekong. The city is designated as a UNESCO World Heritage, in part because of the number of temples here and also, I think, because of the French colonial architecture.
Tonight, I am headed to a popular night market. I just can't get enough of markets. Tomorrow, I think I am traveling south to Vang Vieng. There is just so much to see and so little time. I hope to relax for three or four days in Vang Vieng because there are a lot of water activities and caves, which, as you all know, is my passion.
The Laotian people are wonderful, but the other day, I got a reminder that travelers can't get too enamored by the surroundings and become careless. During the two-day boat ride when we spent the night in the village, a woman I met left about $100 dollars and her i-phone next to her first-floor window. When she returned later in the evening, someone had reached through the security bars and taken it. Fortunately, she had her passport and credit cards on her person.
Before my summer trip each year, my father often reminds me that even though I've traveled overseas for decades I need to be careful. The incident this week was a good reminder to me. It's annoying having to carry around my valuables in my sweaty money belt, but the alternative is far worse.
By the way, Joanie, thanks for the mosquito sheets. They really come in handy when I want to put some repellent on and don't have soap and water to rinse my hands afterward.
My two-part mantra in Southeast Asia has become if it is exposed cover it, which means sunscreen and insect repellent. For the first week or two, I had gotten lax with the repellent until I met a teacher in northern Thailand who told me that malaria does happen in the north, and I needed to lather up.
The other part of the mantra is if it's empty fill it, which means eating enough food, and more importantly, drinking enough water. Back in Nicaragua, I learned the hard way the dangers of dehydration.
I got so dehydrated traveling that I literally couldn't get out of bed, so the owner of the hotel where I was staying bought me some orange juice, and I drank it until I worked up enough energy to get back to my guest home in Guatemala. I'm trying to make sure that never happens again, but some days I feel like my kidneys are going to float.
That's enough for one night.
I hope all is well back in the United States. Everything is great here. Be patient with my posts because I often have to write them rather quickly in internet cafes.
Wednesday, June 19, 2013
Floating Through Laos - June 19, 2013
It took only a few hours for Laos to have already won me over.
Entering Laos was one of my more unusual border crossings. From northern Thailand, I hopped into a small wooden boat, floating inches above the water, a boat which I wasn't sure I would even fit into, me along with several Thai women.
Less than a minute later, the driver dropped me off on the shores of Laos. Each country has its own entrance requirements. With Laos, all I had to do was show up with $35, a picture, and I was granted a 30-day visa. No sweat. Of course, I speak no Laotian, and immigration spoke little English.
Normally, it isn't a problem. There's a lot of smiling, pointing, and patience from all parties involved. Actually, the biggest hangup was that I wanted one of the guards to help me with the pronunciation for "thank you" in Laotian.
So far, I've been extremely lucky crossing borders during this trip. I've entered into the United Arab Emirates, Thailand, and Laos, and no one has asked me a single question or even glanced at my bag. I feel like a guardian angle is looking over me. Uncle Ben certainly got things started off on the right foot when he said a very thoughtful prayer for my safe travel before taking me to the airport. I think it's working.
After getting my paperwork finished, I began my usual ritual, finding a place to stay. People have often asked me how I travel in foreign countries without reservations and without knowing the language. Basically, I find out where the general location is for hotels, walk around and look at three or four, get an idea of the prices, and pick a place. That's all it takes.
My first night in Huay Xai I stayed at a hotel run by a Laotian man with a Chinese wife. For hours, we sat, drank green tea, and talked or tried to talk. He knew little English, and, like with Thai, I know two Laotian expressions - "hello" and "thank you."
Still, we managed to find a connection, and as it grew closer to supper time, he insisted I eat with his family.
The wife brought out three or four huge platters of food, and the parents weren't satisfied until I was stuffed. Afterward, the man asked me if I drank. I said I've been known to on occasion, and he then asked if I'd like to try some homemade Laotian whiskey. Now, how could I refuse a request like that. I wouldn't want to be rude.
The man brought out a jar of some liquid. That I was expecting, but I was stunned by what was floating in the bottom of the jar - a huge centipede. Hey, in Mexico there's a worm in the bottom of the tequila. Why not a centipede.
We had a couple of shots, both of which made my eyes water. I swear I tasted a hint of insect.
The next morning, I got up bright and early for my two-day boat ride down the Mekong River to Luang Prabang. Up until this point, I had had no stomach issues at all. So after breakfast, I got a little nervous when my stomach began to rumble. "Oh no! I thought. Not before a two-day boat ride." I assume it was something I ate and had nothing to do with the centipede hooch.
Fortunately, the storm passed, and I made it onto the boat O.K.
My transportation looked like something out of an old movie. It was a long wooden boat with a canopy covering to block out the sun and rain. The sides were open. In the past, passengers rode on wooden benches, but now old car seats have been installed to make the ride smoother.
I thought most of the passengers would have been tourists, but actually it was about evenly split. Apparently, there are some pretty remote stretches of Laos that are best accessed via the river.
We shoved off, traveling at a leisurely 10-15 miles per hour. When they called it a slow boat they weren't kidding. On and on we drifted, passing an occasional fisherman but no one else. All that was around was mile after mile of mountains covered by jungle; however, every few hours, we passed a village along the banks of the river.
After a couple of hours, the initial excitement inside the boat died down and the oppressive heat took over. Suddenly, all of the passengers got quiet and just fell into a kind of heat-induced lethargy; however, interestingly, it wasn't a negative experience. Far from it. The journey took on its own rhythm. It was as if we were in a semi-conscious state lulled into a hypnotic state from the heat, the hum of the engine, the sound of insects chirping, and the incredible scenery.
Later in the afternoon, the heat began to diminish, and the passengers, once again, came to life with increased chatter and increased energy.
After about six hours on the river, we stopped at a village for the night, and the next morning put in about seven more hours on the river before arriving at Luang Prabang.
Really, it was a quite interesting experience. As I road down the river, I was overcome by the jagged, forest covered mountains, and by the thought that until recent years, I would not have even been allowed to travel here because of the fighting in the region.
During my journey, I have run into a few tourists, but keep in mind that this is low season, and the merchants tell me business is still slow from the great recession. It makes life a lot easier for me because I know accommodations will not be hard to come by.
Over the last couple of days, I have begun to become more acclimated to the heat. For the last week or so, I've seen no rain, but I am sure that will change in the coming days with monsoon season unfolding at different rates in different parts of Southeast Asia.
Everyone is up to date. I am beginning my third week of travel and am continuing to enjoy it. It is getting harder to find internet locations, but I'll keep trying to let you know how I'm doing.
Entering Laos was one of my more unusual border crossings. From northern Thailand, I hopped into a small wooden boat, floating inches above the water, a boat which I wasn't sure I would even fit into, me along with several Thai women.
Less than a minute later, the driver dropped me off on the shores of Laos. Each country has its own entrance requirements. With Laos, all I had to do was show up with $35, a picture, and I was granted a 30-day visa. No sweat. Of course, I speak no Laotian, and immigration spoke little English.
Normally, it isn't a problem. There's a lot of smiling, pointing, and patience from all parties involved. Actually, the biggest hangup was that I wanted one of the guards to help me with the pronunciation for "thank you" in Laotian.
So far, I've been extremely lucky crossing borders during this trip. I've entered into the United Arab Emirates, Thailand, and Laos, and no one has asked me a single question or even glanced at my bag. I feel like a guardian angle is looking over me. Uncle Ben certainly got things started off on the right foot when he said a very thoughtful prayer for my safe travel before taking me to the airport. I think it's working.
After getting my paperwork finished, I began my usual ritual, finding a place to stay. People have often asked me how I travel in foreign countries without reservations and without knowing the language. Basically, I find out where the general location is for hotels, walk around and look at three or four, get an idea of the prices, and pick a place. That's all it takes.
My first night in Huay Xai I stayed at a hotel run by a Laotian man with a Chinese wife. For hours, we sat, drank green tea, and talked or tried to talk. He knew little English, and, like with Thai, I know two Laotian expressions - "hello" and "thank you."
Still, we managed to find a connection, and as it grew closer to supper time, he insisted I eat with his family.
The wife brought out three or four huge platters of food, and the parents weren't satisfied until I was stuffed. Afterward, the man asked me if I drank. I said I've been known to on occasion, and he then asked if I'd like to try some homemade Laotian whiskey. Now, how could I refuse a request like that. I wouldn't want to be rude.
The man brought out a jar of some liquid. That I was expecting, but I was stunned by what was floating in the bottom of the jar - a huge centipede. Hey, in Mexico there's a worm in the bottom of the tequila. Why not a centipede.
We had a couple of shots, both of which made my eyes water. I swear I tasted a hint of insect.
The next morning, I got up bright and early for my two-day boat ride down the Mekong River to Luang Prabang. Up until this point, I had had no stomach issues at all. So after breakfast, I got a little nervous when my stomach began to rumble. "Oh no! I thought. Not before a two-day boat ride." I assume it was something I ate and had nothing to do with the centipede hooch.
Fortunately, the storm passed, and I made it onto the boat O.K.
My transportation looked like something out of an old movie. It was a long wooden boat with a canopy covering to block out the sun and rain. The sides were open. In the past, passengers rode on wooden benches, but now old car seats have been installed to make the ride smoother.
I thought most of the passengers would have been tourists, but actually it was about evenly split. Apparently, there are some pretty remote stretches of Laos that are best accessed via the river.
We shoved off, traveling at a leisurely 10-15 miles per hour. When they called it a slow boat they weren't kidding. On and on we drifted, passing an occasional fisherman but no one else. All that was around was mile after mile of mountains covered by jungle; however, every few hours, we passed a village along the banks of the river.
After a couple of hours, the initial excitement inside the boat died down and the oppressive heat took over. Suddenly, all of the passengers got quiet and just fell into a kind of heat-induced lethargy; however, interestingly, it wasn't a negative experience. Far from it. The journey took on its own rhythm. It was as if we were in a semi-conscious state lulled into a hypnotic state from the heat, the hum of the engine, the sound of insects chirping, and the incredible scenery.
Later in the afternoon, the heat began to diminish, and the passengers, once again, came to life with increased chatter and increased energy.
After about six hours on the river, we stopped at a village for the night, and the next morning put in about seven more hours on the river before arriving at Luang Prabang.
Really, it was a quite interesting experience. As I road down the river, I was overcome by the jagged, forest covered mountains, and by the thought that until recent years, I would not have even been allowed to travel here because of the fighting in the region.
During my journey, I have run into a few tourists, but keep in mind that this is low season, and the merchants tell me business is still slow from the great recession. It makes life a lot easier for me because I know accommodations will not be hard to come by.
Over the last couple of days, I have begun to become more acclimated to the heat. For the last week or so, I've seen no rain, but I am sure that will change in the coming days with monsoon season unfolding at different rates in different parts of Southeast Asia.
Everyone is up to date. I am beginning my third week of travel and am continuing to enjoy it. It is getting harder to find internet locations, but I'll keep trying to let you know how I'm doing.
Sunday, June 16, 2013
Chiang Khong, Thailand - June 16,2013
I think I am at the end of the world.
I am writing from Chiang Khong, which is a short hike south of Myanmar, and I think I could hit a 9 iron east across the Mekong River and have it land in Laos.
After being in cities for awhile, it is refreshing to be out in the countryside.
Riding from Chiang Mi was a scenic experience. First, we drove up through the mountains surrounded by jungle and then descended into a valley full of rice fields, which stretched on for hours.
This morning, I had my first potential problem. I just couldn't wait any longer and had to use the squat toilet in the bus station. My friend, Joanie, broke her leg last summer when she slipped in such a toilet in China. Fortunately, I was wearing hiking shoes with good soles and managed to get through unharmed.
Tomorrow, I will board the ferry to cross into Laos and probably hang out a night or two before taking the two-day boat ride down the Mekong.
That's it for the time being. I will be in touch in a couple of days.
I am writing from Chiang Khong, which is a short hike south of Myanmar, and I think I could hit a 9 iron east across the Mekong River and have it land in Laos.
After being in cities for awhile, it is refreshing to be out in the countryside.
Riding from Chiang Mi was a scenic experience. First, we drove up through the mountains surrounded by jungle and then descended into a valley full of rice fields, which stretched on for hours.
This morning, I had my first potential problem. I just couldn't wait any longer and had to use the squat toilet in the bus station. My friend, Joanie, broke her leg last summer when she slipped in such a toilet in China. Fortunately, I was wearing hiking shoes with good soles and managed to get through unharmed.
Tomorrow, I will board the ferry to cross into Laos and probably hang out a night or two before taking the two-day boat ride down the Mekong.
That's it for the time being. I will be in touch in a couple of days.
Saturday, June 15, 2013
Chiang Mai, Thailand - June 15, 2013
It's been more than 20 years since I traveled through Europe on trains, so I couldn't miss the chance to do it again. Even though it was a few hours longer and more expensive, I took a 14-hour ride from Ayutthaya to Chiang Mi, which is an artistic town in northern Thailand.
I left in the early afternoon, which gave me a chance to admire the scenery - mile after mile of rice fields, which is the image of Thailand I had in my mind before coming here. Apparently, Thailand is at the top or near the top in Asia in terms of rice production.
I've always had a love of trains, so it was nice to experience it again. I spent a little extra and got a sleeper car. About 8 p.m., someone came and lowered my bed from the ceiling. Another passenger slept on the lower section, which was made by folding down the two seats. The employees even put sheets on the mats and hung curtains to block out the interior lights.
It was a little tight, but I was able to squeeze my 5-foot-ten-inch frame into the compartment and slept fairly well. In the morning, I was awakened by a Thai teenager walking down the train yelling, "Wake up! Wake up!"
For the past two days, I have been exploring Chiang Mi. Yesterday, I visited a series of Buddhist temples and chatted for awhile with a monk. It's a free program that gives tourists a chance to ask questions and the monks a chance to practice English.
When I asked the monk how I could more easily meditate, he suggested that I get away from focusing on my breath, and instead, focus on the fact that death is waiting just around the corner. He said once we grasp that it helps us stay in the present moment. He also suggested performing works of kindness, which he says also helps us stay in the moment.
Last night, I checked out a night bazaar. It consisted of a series of outdoor artists selling their wares and vendors selling food over a series of several blocks. It was a sea of excitement with people from all over the world.
Today, I am checking out another popular Saturday art market.
Tomorrow, I plan to move on to Chiang Khong, which is just south of Myanmar and just west of Laos. It's about as far north in Thailand as one can get. In the next couple of days, I'll cross the Mekong River and enter Laos. From there, I hope to take a two-day slow boat ride down the river, which stretches through Laos, Cambodia, and Vietnam, before emptying into the South China Sea. From what I've heard, Laos is a great country to visit.
I continue to enjoy my time here, especially the street food, but I am still having a hard time adjusting to the heat and humidity. I've read that is very normal, so I'm getting plenty of rest, drinking plenty of water, and trying to operate in a slower gear.
It might be a few days before I am able to send out another message. All is well. By the way, I'm not sure if my e-mail went out indicating that I would update everyone on my blog. Would someone please let me know if it got through?
That's it from Thailand. The market awaits.
I left in the early afternoon, which gave me a chance to admire the scenery - mile after mile of rice fields, which is the image of Thailand I had in my mind before coming here. Apparently, Thailand is at the top or near the top in Asia in terms of rice production.
I've always had a love of trains, so it was nice to experience it again. I spent a little extra and got a sleeper car. About 8 p.m., someone came and lowered my bed from the ceiling. Another passenger slept on the lower section, which was made by folding down the two seats. The employees even put sheets on the mats and hung curtains to block out the interior lights.
It was a little tight, but I was able to squeeze my 5-foot-ten-inch frame into the compartment and slept fairly well. In the morning, I was awakened by a Thai teenager walking down the train yelling, "Wake up! Wake up!"
For the past two days, I have been exploring Chiang Mi. Yesterday, I visited a series of Buddhist temples and chatted for awhile with a monk. It's a free program that gives tourists a chance to ask questions and the monks a chance to practice English.
When I asked the monk how I could more easily meditate, he suggested that I get away from focusing on my breath, and instead, focus on the fact that death is waiting just around the corner. He said once we grasp that it helps us stay in the present moment. He also suggested performing works of kindness, which he says also helps us stay in the moment.
Last night, I checked out a night bazaar. It consisted of a series of outdoor artists selling their wares and vendors selling food over a series of several blocks. It was a sea of excitement with people from all over the world.
Today, I am checking out another popular Saturday art market.
Tomorrow, I plan to move on to Chiang Khong, which is just south of Myanmar and just west of Laos. It's about as far north in Thailand as one can get. In the next couple of days, I'll cross the Mekong River and enter Laos. From there, I hope to take a two-day slow boat ride down the river, which stretches through Laos, Cambodia, and Vietnam, before emptying into the South China Sea. From what I've heard, Laos is a great country to visit.
I continue to enjoy my time here, especially the street food, but I am still having a hard time adjusting to the heat and humidity. I've read that is very normal, so I'm getting plenty of rest, drinking plenty of water, and trying to operate in a slower gear.
It might be a few days before I am able to send out another message. All is well. By the way, I'm not sure if my e-mail went out indicating that I would update everyone on my blog. Would someone please let me know if it got through?
That's it from Thailand. The market awaits.
Thursday, June 13, 2013
Journey Through Southeast Asia - June 13, 2013
It's been awhile since I posted anything about my travels. This summer seems like a good time to resume the practice I started back in 2010 during my trip to Turkey. It also seems like a good way to let my family and friends know what's happening, rather than sending out individual e-mails. This way, I won't clog your in-box, and if you feel like knowing how the trip is going, you can just take a peek at my blog.
To update everyone, this summer I am traveling for seven weeks through Southeast Asia. My agenda is wide open, but roughly speaking, I would like to get to Thailand, Laos, Cambodia, and Vietnam. We'll see if that happens.
The trip began with a three-day stopover in Abu Dhabi, where I stayed with a Couchsurfer, a Canadian teacher. It was an excellent experience with the highlight being a swim in the Persian Gulf. I met some of the friendliest people from all over the world. There were definitely not any anti-American sentiments.
Next, I flew to Bangkok, where I stayed another three days with a Scottish Couchsurfer, who is also a teacher in Bangkok. Bangkok was also enjoyable, although at one point I wasn't sure if I'd make it out alive. One night, my host and I headed out to eat aboard the back of two motorcycles, which is quite common here. Basically, it is a motorcycle taxi. Anyway, it was rush hour traffic and the streets were jammed with traffic, but that didn't stop the motorcycles from weaving in an out of the stalled traffic. Actually, it was quite exciting.
Now, I am in Ayutthaya, which is in central Thailand. At one point, it was one of the most important cities in Asia, but now it is popular with tourists who come to see its ruins. For the last two days, I have been doing just that.
For the first time, I checked into a "guest house," which is a simple but comfortable hotel. The room cost a little more than $6. It wasn't a luxury place but definitely not a dive. Since this is low season, there are some good deals.
I've discovered why it's low season. The monsoons have started, but, fortunately, it has just rained at night; the sun is brutal; and the humidity is outrageous. I am in no way complaining. I just wanted to paint the picture.
Also, I continue to enjoy the street food. Since I know no Thai, I just point at things and smile. The vendors get the message. Today, I ate a wonderful bowl of noodle soup loaded with basil leaves and bean sprouts. Ummmmmm.....
The food is wonderful from the street vendors and quite cheap. I haven't paid more than a couple of dollars for anything.
In the past, I used to envy tourists who braved eating street food because it always looked great, but I chickened out. This summer, I decided to take the plunge and have had no problems. Actually, a couple of years ago I read that the instances of food-born illness are as common at fancy restaurants as at dives.
In a couple of hours, I will head several hours north to Chiang Mai, where I hope to stay for two or three days before beginning my trek toward the Laotian border.
By the way, Beverly, I haven't yet found the beer can purses you want. Before I left Bangkok, I went to a market known for having such things but couldn't find them. I will keep searching.
That is about it.
I will continue with updates on my blog, assuming I continue to find internet access. Please forgive any spelling mistakes. I am updating this at an internet cafe, which charges by the minute, which is also why I'm not including pictures.
All is well. I will be in touch in a few days.
To update everyone, this summer I am traveling for seven weeks through Southeast Asia. My agenda is wide open, but roughly speaking, I would like to get to Thailand, Laos, Cambodia, and Vietnam. We'll see if that happens.
The trip began with a three-day stopover in Abu Dhabi, where I stayed with a Couchsurfer, a Canadian teacher. It was an excellent experience with the highlight being a swim in the Persian Gulf. I met some of the friendliest people from all over the world. There were definitely not any anti-American sentiments.
Next, I flew to Bangkok, where I stayed another three days with a Scottish Couchsurfer, who is also a teacher in Bangkok. Bangkok was also enjoyable, although at one point I wasn't sure if I'd make it out alive. One night, my host and I headed out to eat aboard the back of two motorcycles, which is quite common here. Basically, it is a motorcycle taxi. Anyway, it was rush hour traffic and the streets were jammed with traffic, but that didn't stop the motorcycles from weaving in an out of the stalled traffic. Actually, it was quite exciting.
Now, I am in Ayutthaya, which is in central Thailand. At one point, it was one of the most important cities in Asia, but now it is popular with tourists who come to see its ruins. For the last two days, I have been doing just that.
For the first time, I checked into a "guest house," which is a simple but comfortable hotel. The room cost a little more than $6. It wasn't a luxury place but definitely not a dive. Since this is low season, there are some good deals.
I've discovered why it's low season. The monsoons have started, but, fortunately, it has just rained at night; the sun is brutal; and the humidity is outrageous. I am in no way complaining. I just wanted to paint the picture.
Also, I continue to enjoy the street food. Since I know no Thai, I just point at things and smile. The vendors get the message. Today, I ate a wonderful bowl of noodle soup loaded with basil leaves and bean sprouts. Ummmmmm.....
The food is wonderful from the street vendors and quite cheap. I haven't paid more than a couple of dollars for anything.
In the past, I used to envy tourists who braved eating street food because it always looked great, but I chickened out. This summer, I decided to take the plunge and have had no problems. Actually, a couple of years ago I read that the instances of food-born illness are as common at fancy restaurants as at dives.
In a couple of hours, I will head several hours north to Chiang Mai, where I hope to stay for two or three days before beginning my trek toward the Laotian border.
By the way, Beverly, I haven't yet found the beer can purses you want. Before I left Bangkok, I went to a market known for having such things but couldn't find them. I will keep searching.
That is about it.
I will continue with updates on my blog, assuming I continue to find internet access. Please forgive any spelling mistakes. I am updating this at an internet cafe, which charges by the minute, which is also why I'm not including pictures.
All is well. I will be in touch in a few days.
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