Christmas on Kilimanjaro

Mt. Kilimanjaro, Tanzania – Courtesy of Chris 73/Wikimedia Commons

I guess it's true that time heals all wounds because I'm getting ready to do another tortuous trek, this time to the top of Africa's tallest mountain – Kilimanjaro, standing 19,340 feet above sea level (5,895 meters).

After hiking to Everest Base Camp two years ago, I vowed to leave such long-distance, high-altitude endeavors alone. Somehow, I've managed to forget the daily six-hour plus uphill climbs, aching limbs, struggling to breath, battling the intense cold.

Now all I remember is the pristine beauty of the Himalayas. I tell myself Everest wasn't that bad. How hard can another high-altitude assault really be? I'm in Zimbabwe. I'm 51 years old. I might as well do it.

Enter Tanzania's Mt. Kilimanjaro.

Assuming all goes as planned, I'll begin my hike on December 21, summit on Christmas, and be back down the mountain 24 hours later. It's a six-day trip covering roughly 50 miles (80 kilometres).

There are several paths up the world's highest, free-standing mountain. I've chosen the Marangu route, which is supposedly easier due to the more gradual and steady ascent. The biggest attraction for me is huts for accommodation, rather than tents. I've never been a camper, and I'm not going to start now.

However, there's a huge downside – the odds of summiting are far less than the other routes because of a shorter acclimatisation period. Hikers gain altitude faster along Marangu, meaning there's a greater possibility of altitude sickness.

According to The Merck Manual of Diagnosis and Therapy, about 20% of those journeying above 8,000 feet will experience some symptoms of altitude sickness – shortness of breath, headache, dizziness, nausea, fatigue. The number jumps to 40% if one goes above 10,000 feet.

I'm sure I'll encounter a bit of altitude-related problems, like I did on Everest; however, hikers can also develop life-threatening forms of altitude sickness: cerebral edema and pulmonary edema. In these situations, a person has to get to a lower altitude immediately. Fortunately, such reactions only occur in about one percent of the population.

Physically, I feel ready for the trip, but I have no idea how my body will react to the altitude. It varies from person to person and even from one trip to the next. A couch potato might make it to the summit with ease while a world-class athletes be overwhelmed by the altitude.

I'm crossing my fingers that the mountain gods won't randomly strike me down with serious altitude sickness. The best way to avoid it is to hike slowly, which I mastered in Nepal with my grandpa-like pace.

Overall, about 65% of climbers reportedly make it to the top of Kilimanjaro, although the park service puts the number closer to 45%. Altitude sickness is the number one factor standing in the way of success. The other major challenge is mental, especially with the rapidly-changing weather as hikers move through five major ecological zones. A trek can begin with sunny skies and temperatures around 90 degrees Fahrenheit, but it rains often, and at the summit, temperatures may drop to 20 degrees below zero.

As with my hike to Everest Base Camp, I will record all of my thoughts in a journal and then transfer them directly to my blog after I return. Even if I don't make it to the top, I'll share my unedited reflections. What I write on the mountain is what you'll read on my blog.

I feel I've done everything I can to prepare. Still, while you open presents on Christmas, I would appreciate any and all positive thoughts as I, hopefully, am heading toward the summit.