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| Near Lobuche, Nepal |
This was one of the many culprits during my four-and-a-half hour hike, a hike with a 2,000-foot gain in elevation, a hike that's left me wondering if I can physically make it to base camp. A few hours ago, I would have said "no."
As I approached Lobuche, nestled at 16,174 feet (4,930 meters), my energy level dropped dramatically, and I developed a slight headache. When I finally sat down in the dining room at the tea house, the headache kicked in with a fury.
For an hour, I remained in a daze, wanting to get up but not having the stamina to move and fearing I'd throw up if I tried. At one point, I asked my guide Pasang when we'd begin our hike tomorrow to Everest. "We'll see," he replied.
That's not what I wanted to hear.
For the first time in my trip, Pasang didn't ask me how I felt. He didn't need to. He's been a guide long enough to recognize altitude sickness.
I understood what "we'll see" means. It means that if my condition doesn't improve I'll be returning to Dingboche.
Although many of my trekker colleagues have been gobbling down the medicine Diamox to prevent and reduce the symptoms of altitude sickness, I resisted, until today, when I took the drug, as well as a pain killer. I had no choice. I don't want to turn back.
The picture above sums up my entire hike. The landscape is beautiful. The experience is magical, but, at times, it's difficult work, just putting one foot in front of the other. Look closely at the hikers on this easier section of the trail. They're not joking around. They're not talking. They're not even smiling. They're just focused on the task at hand, and although they're in a group, they're really very much alone.
For most, the goal is to just make it to Everest. For others, it's to climb to the top, which is why the trail is now clogged with porters and yaks hauling gear to base camp.
When I began my trip, I said that I wanted to do it for the experience, and it's been a wonderful one, but now my trip has become more of a challenge – dealing with the extreme cold; pushing through the fatigue of the daily, multi-hour hikes; and overcoming illness and the altitude.
Speaking of the weather, the high today was 40° Fahrenheit (18° Celsius) and the low 26°F (-2°C), which helps explain the difficulty of life without heat.
As I look toward tomorrow, I've got another 1,600 feet to conquer. I hope I make it, but my guide keeps reminding me that anything can happen in the Himalayas and that, ultimately, Everest is in , charge.
I am feeling better, and I remain optimistic, as does Pasang; however, if I don't get to base camp, Pasang this evening left me this with these words, "All life is precious. The mountain will always be there."
NOTE: These are the exact, unedited journal entries I wrote during my trip. Because of limited internet access in the Himalayas, I am posting them now, rather than during my actual journey, which I finished two weeks before the first earthquake. I hope it's not perceived that I'm disrespecting the dead or those suffering. On the contrary, I'm hoping to provide some insight into why so many people, considering the risks, continue to be drawn to the Himalayas year after year.
Tourism will likely be what fuels Nepal's recovery. (See Adventure Travelers Helping Rebuild Nepal). Until that happens, Nepal continues to need our immediate help, which is why I'll continue providing a list of relief agencies for anyone wishing to donate.
Please see Why I'm Resuming My Everest Blog for an explanation of my decision to restart the account of my Nepalese journey.
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