Everest Expedition (Day 3) - Lukla

My mom and I maintain a don't ask/don't tell policy. She never inquires about any potential risky activities during my trips abroad, and I never tell her, until I'm home safely. That might explain why I never mentioned I'd be flying into Lukla, the gateway to Everest, and home to the world's most dangerous airport. You can spot the runway on the far left of this picture. (Click on photo to enlarge)

Lukla, Nepal

Pilots must battle unpredictable, ever-changing weather, tricky wind currents, and, oh yeah, they fly through the Himalayas, seemingly so close that it felt like I could reach out and touch the mountains on either side.

Flights are frequently postponed or cancelled, much to the frustration of hikers, but an old adage clearly illustrates why, "In Nepal, our clouds have rocks in them."

Above all, clouds present the greatest threat to pilots because, without radar or navigation equipment at Lukla, pilots rely on their line of sight to land. If the weather isn't clear, if clouds roll in unexpectedly, they're flying blind, which is why if there's any doubt about the weather, planes are grounded.

And there's one more hazard of flying into Lukla - an inclined, 1,600 foot (487 meter), tiny runway beginning at the edge of a cliff, hundreds of feet above the valley floor, and terminating at the base of a mountain.

After a pilot makes his approach, there's no turning back. He's got one shot to stick the landing and bring the plane to a stop within the equivalent of about five American football fields.

Take a look for yourself.

Once it landed, the plane took less than 10 seconds to reach the number "24," where I was standing on the mountainside. Had it gone any farther it would have met a rocky end.

Here's video I took of the plane departing. The 12% incline helps planes speed up for takeoff and slows them down while landing. It's the equivalent of a 10-story building.

Pretty sobering, but for some reason, the thrill of the flight outweighed any fear.

However, the airport has had its share of accidents, including fatal ones. Back in 2004, a plane without passengers rammed into a nearby hill, killing all three crew members. Then, in 2008, high winds blew clouds in at the last minute, covering the runway, just as a pilot was attempting to land. He missed the runway, hit a fence, and crashed, resulting in a fireball that killed 18.

There's an alternative to the 30-minute flight: a 12-hour bus ride, followed by, at least, a two-day hike, but most trekkers don't have that sort of time. During the height of tourist season, as many as a dozen planes land here each hour, so I felt that the odds were in my favor.

Lukla, itself, is a sleepy village, but the view is breathtaking. It's surrounded on all sides by snow-capped mountains. Sorry, I don't have any better shots because a few minutes after I landed clouds rolled in.

By the way, in several of my pictures, you'll see these brightly-colored flags. They're called Buddhist prayer flags. Buddhists believe the flags generate spiritual vibrations that are released when blown by the wind, carrying good will, compassion, and blessings to all.

The rest of the day I explored the village, including a monastery, and spent several minutes watching an impromptu cricket game.

My plans are a bit sketchy. My outfitter allowed me to fly to Lukla a day early in case bad weather cancels a day or two of flights. Unfortunately, I have little flexibility in my vacation schedule. Right now, that appears to have been a wise decision because the weather forecast is grim.

Tomorrow, hopefully, the rest of the group flies in after breakfast. If there are any major delays, I'll begin my trek without them, since my guide is already here. Later, the group will catch up.

I can't say enough about Mountain Monarch Adventures. This morning, the owner picked me up at my hotel, drove me to the airport, and walked me up to security, where an airline representative was waiting.

The rep escorted me to the front of the check-in line. Ten minutes later, I was in the departure lounge. After the plane landed, another contact was waiting to walk me to the hotel, where I met my guide.

I paid a little more, but so far, the service has been stellar and worth every cent.

As far as the altitude, I've jumped from 4,600 feet in Kathmandu to 9,186 feet (2,800 meters) in Lukla.

It's much colder, and I've been struggling to catch my breath going uphill, but other than that, I feel good.

Tomorrow, I'll hike to Phakding, with or without the group.

I can't believe I'm finally in the Himalayas. It's even more than I expected.