Sunday, July 4, 2010

Underground Turkey - July 4, 2010


This is what most people come to Cappadocia to see - Göreme.

I'm not sure how to describe it. The best I've come up with is the Flintstones on the moon.



Göreme is only 1.5 hours west of the industrial city Kayseri, but it might as well be on another planet.


During Roman and Byzantine times, Christianity flourished in the Cappadocian region from the 4th - 11th centuries.


When settlers arrived, they found this mysterious and awe-inspiring landscape and decided to chistle their homes and their churches into the volcanic rock and ash.



Several rock churches, like this one from the 10th century, contain frescoes depicting the life of Christ.


The Cappadocians also built an estimated 36 underground cities in the region, including the one I visited in the village of Derinkuyu.


The underground city is a seven-level maze of narrow, twisting passages and stairwells, which would be a claustrophobic's worst nightmare.

During peaceful times, the people lived above ground, but when enemies threatened, the inhabitants could go underground for up to six months, even bringing along livestock.

The cities were fortified. The residents could roll these massive stones to block the doorways and fight enemies through the hole that you can see in the center of the stone. There were also holes in the ceilings to pour hot oil on invaders.


Once underground, the inhabitants got fresh air through these ventilation shafts.

Caving is my passion, so I felt right at home hemmed in on all sides by the rock walls.

Today, a few people still live in the rock structures in Göreme, but many have left because of problems with deterioration. In recent years, hotel proprietors have stepped in and renovated the structures to give travelers like me a chance to sleep in a man-made cave for a night.

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As I write this post, I'm back in Kayseri. Aziz and Dicle and their other roommates are such wonderful people that I wanted to spend one last evening with them.

Tomorrow, I hope to begin heading north toward the Black Sea. Aziz suggested the route, and as with all of my prior destinations, I go where the universe tells me.

Before I close, I wanted to share something that Dicle mentioned while she was showing me around Kayseri. I asked her if it was obvious by my appearance that I was not Turkish.

She said "yes" that there were certain features that made me stand out, but she said the real thing that was different about me was that I am always smiling. "People aren't used to seeing that," she said.

Part of the reason I've been smiling a lot lately is that I am so happy to be in Turkey, but also I have been trying to heed the advice of what my friend Umit from Izmir told me.

She said the more positive energy we give off the more positive energy we attract. It's made me wonder what other good things we can all attract in our own lives by paying a little more attention to the messages and vibes were are sending others.

Thursday, July 1, 2010

More Guardian Angels in Kayseri - July 2, 2010


The latest stop on my journey is Kayseri, a city with hundreds of years of history, as well as a thriving modern economy. Kayseri is in the Cappadocia region of Turkey in the middle part of the country.

As you can see in the background of the mosque, the scenic seaside has now been replaced by equally scenic rolling hills and mountains.

Today, Dicle, a friend of my host, showed me around the city. Dicle is standing in front of the walls of a citadel, which were originally built in the 6th century and repaired in the 1200s.

Dicle was a great, enthusiastic guide and a charming companion for an afternoon.


Dicle and Aziz are my latest Coach Surfing hosts. Both are studying astronomy. Aziz describes himself as a "mad scientist" who also enjoys acting. Although Aziz is extremely busy right now preparing for a journey of his own, he still graciously agreed to host me.

I have enjoyed his intellect and our engaging conversations.

Aziz told me he enjoys Couch Surfing because, "My life is based on sharing. I like to share everything, including my couch."

As for my project, he said, "In every human being there is good and evil, but I think the good is more dominant. I have a strong belief that one day it will come out, and we will have peace everywhere."

Kayseri isn't as much of a tourist town, so I drew some strange looks throughout the day. My favorite encounter was with these little girls. When they heard Dicle and I speaking English, they came running. One of the girls told Dicle that she had never heard a human speaking English before. The girls insisted I speak English over and over again, much to their delight.

I had to share my latest benevolent encounter. When I arrived in Kayseri, Aziz had his cell phone off because he had a bad headache and needed a few minutes of sleep. A representative with the bus company let me borrow his phone to call, but when Aziz didn't answer I got a little nervous.

Then, several of my guardian angels took over. A bus employee led me to a waiting area, where we got through to Aziz. Next, the representative walked me to a shuttle bus, where the driver took over, insisting I sit next to him.

About 30 minutes later, he showed me where to get off the shuttle, but I still wasn't sure where Aziz lived.


I asked a man in front of a store for help. The man must have walked a mile with me, stopping several times to ask for directions.

Finally, we came to a bakery, where we called Aziz. My guardian angel on the left wasn't at all annoyed. In fact, he acted like I did him a favor. That's Turkey. That's my latest example of why the world is good.

Tomorrow, I am journeying about an hour to Göreme, home to some out-of-this-world stone structures. I'll tell you about it in a day or two.

Until then, thanks for reading my blog, and Dicle and Aziz thanks again for your kindness.

Newspaper Story Update

O.K., here is the newspaper story I told you about, assuming you can read Turkish.

Financial Update

New Donations

June 22 = 20 Turkish Lira = $12.60

June 22 = $52.75 - 1.83 (PayPal fee) = $50.92

June 23 = $20 - 0.88 (PayPal fee) = $19.12

June 25 = $100 - 3.20 (PayPal fee) = $96.80

June 29 = $25.00 - 1.03 (Pay Pal fee) = $23.97

Total Donations = $203.41

Expenses

Transportation = 161.55 Turkish Lira = $101.77

Food = 81.54 Turkish Lira = $51.37

VISA (to enter Turkey) = $20.00

Lodging = 30 Turkish Lira = $18.90

Ephesus Entrance = 20 Turkish Lira = $12.60

Exchange Fees = 3.90 Turkish Lira = $2.49

Internet Fees = 2 Turkish Lira = $1.26

Total Expenses = $208.14

That means I have $345.81 left to spend over the last 10 days of my trip. It is looking more and more like the universe will respond to both my dreams - spending a month in Turkey and having money left over for charity. Incredible!