Whale Sharks of Oslob

I was awed when I first saw one years ago at an aquarium.

Now, I find myself swimming next to the world's largest fish in the ocean off the coast of the Philippines.

Whale sharks grow upwards of 45 feet and can weigh 20 tons.

It's a bit intimidating watching a
20-footer heading straight
towards me ...







it's five-foot wide mouth open, as if it could swallow me whole without much of an effort or a second thought.

But humans aren't on the menu. The whale shark uses it's cavernous mouth as a filter to consume plankton.






Fishermen in the village of Tan-awan –  just outside of Oslob on the island of Cebu – once drove away the gentle giants because they destroyed nets and scared other fish. That is until a few tourists asked the fishermen to take them out to see the sharks. Soon, the fishermen discovered they could make a better living as tour guides and began daily feeding the whale sharks with krill to attract them.

Some environmentalists say that's to the nutritional detriment of the whale sharks who now prefer bobbing at the surface for handouts, rather than following their instincts to forage the open seas for more natural food.

In addition, the environmentalists say this behavior has changed the migratory patterns of the sharks,which could affect breeding. Finally, as the whale sharks have acclimated to humans, environmentalists say the fish now equate boats with food and are susceptible to injury, especially from boats with propellers.

The catamarans used to transport tourists to the feeding sights, located a few yards offshore, are powered by oars, but the whale sharks still sustain injuries.





Supporters of the whale tourism say it's boosted the local economy and raised awareness of the endangered fish, which were formerly hunted but now protected across Asia.

Tourism officials are also quick to point out that the activity is tightly controlled. Swimmers must undergo a briefing. They are no longer allowed to touch the fish, and violators face fines, including the possibility of jail time.

Snorkeling with the whale sharks isn't exactly a Jacques Cousteau moment  – knowing that the fish are baited and having to avoid other tourists jockeying for position to get the perfect selfie  – but there's still something thrilling experiencing a 20-foot fish circling around you.


PRACTICAL INFORMATION

• Tan-awan is located three and a half hours from Cebu City. Buses run throughout the day from the South Bus Terminal, The fare on an air-conditioned bus is 145 pesos (roughly $3 US). Ask the driver to let you off at the whale watching briefing area, a few minutes south of Oslob. If you prefer spending the night, there are plenty of accommodations in Oslob, as well as more limited lodging in Tan-awan. Public transportation from Oslob to Tan-awan is available for seven pesos via a jeepney.

• The fee for swimming with the whale sharks is 1,000 pesos (roughly $21 US), including snorkeling gear and a life vest. It's cheaper if you prefer staying in the boat. The session is limited to 30 minutes.

• Arrive early to beat the crowds. The viewing begins at 6 a.m.

• Consider spending a day or two in Oslob to experience the ocean, take in the Spanish architecture,

and enjoy a bit of culture.

Words to Live By

On a recent trip to the Philippines, I saw these words posted on several businesses as a reminder of how we should all live.

BE HONEST

Even if others are not

Even if others will not

Even if others cannot

The Land of Happiness

Bhutan - October 2015

The bottom line is often emphasized as what's most important in any economy, unless you happen to find yourself in Bhutan  – a country where delight is valued as much as dollars.

This Himalayan Shangri-La  – wedged between China and India – rejects the GDP (Gross Domestic Product) model of prosperity in favor of its own GNH (Gross National Happiness).



The idea is that Bhutanese leaders should maintain a society where "material and spiritual development happen together", thus creating the best environment for citizens to be happy. It's the only country in the world that utilizes such a holistic, non-monetary measure of the quality of life.

With this aim in mind, the government puts environmental conservation at the heart of decision making – 60% of the country must remain forested; the country has pledged to be carbon neutral; and tourism is limited because of a US$250-per-day-fee per guest, which includes hotels, meals, transportation, and a guide. All travel  – with the exception of three nationalities – is organized through agencies.

I relish the reduced cost and increased independence of backpacking, but it gives a traveler a good feeling knowing $65 of that daily fee goes toward education, healthcare, and roads. Plus, the accommodations are generally quite comfortable and the food tasty.

Bhutan is about the size of Indiana or Switzerland with a population of 750,000 inhabiting 15,000 square miles.






For centuries, this predominately Buddhist country remained closed to visitors. In 1974, the first tourists arrived, followed two decades later by television and the internet when in 1999 the king finally lifted the ban outlawing both activities.

 There's plenty to see in Bhutan:  ancient fortresses,

one of the world's largest Buddhas,

    and the country's most famous attraction  –

the Tiger's Nest Monastery, tucked into a cliff 3,000 feet above the valley floor.







You'll have to hike more than two hours to reach the 10,240-foot elevation, but it's well worth the effort for the view alone.


If you're lucky, you also might be able to partake of a traditional festival

featuring dozens of colorful, mask-clad dancers.

Bhutan is one of my all-time favorite destinations.

 

Much of its charm lies with the landscape, the friendly people, and the more relaxed pace of life.

Thimphu is the world's only capital city without a traffic light.







But there's a downside to paradise.

For travelers, the $250-per-day-fee adds up quickly, although the fee drops to $200 a day in the off-season.

In addition, getting around isn't easy. Roads between towns are being upgraded, but you're likely to find the journey bone-jarring at times with numerous delays, ranging from construction to landslides to trees being cut down.

And the take off and landing at the country's only international airport can be a bit nerve-racking. Paro is considered to be one of the world's most dangerous airports because of strong winds, the treacherous terrain, and a series of hard, last-minute banks during the approach. Only eight pilots are qualified to fly here.

Take a look at this aerial video from You Tube.

Finally, despite its reputation for happiness, Bhutan is far from perfect for those who live there. The government's decision to open the borders has led to numerous social problems in the developing nation, including crime, drug abuse, and unemployment.

Still, it's wonderful to spend a few refreshing, romantic days in the Himalayas in a land where anything seems possible,








and money isn't the main preoccupation in life.

Note: Bhutan requires tourists to book vacations through one of more than 1,000 travel agencies. I can't say enough good things about Swallowtail, which we found on Trip Advisor. Unlike most countries, Bhutan asks visitors to pay upfront before visas and airline tickets are issued. Don't be alarmed. That's just the way it's done.

Visit to Korea's Deadly DMZ

Used With Permission from Wikimedia Commons - US Soldier 2002

The cease-fire went into effect six decades ago, but no peace treaty was ever signed, meaning North and South Korea officially

remain at war.

To help maintain the uneasy armistice, diplomats established the Korean Demilitarized Zone (DMZ), a 2.5-mile wide buffer, cutting 160 miles across the Korean Peninsula. It's the most heavily militarized border

Used with Permission from Wikimedia Commons - DMZ 2005

Used with Permission from Wikimedia Commons - North Korean Soldier 2005

in the world.












Fences topped with razor wire physically

separate

the two countries

But it hasn't prevented numerous hostilities between North and South Korea. Back in August, each country launched shells across the DMZ after three landmine explosions maimed two South Korean soldiers. South Korea claimed enemy soldiers sneaked across the border and planted the mines along a known patrol route in a neutral area.

North Korean leader, Kim Jong-un, responded to the exchange of gunfire by declaring he was mobilizing his troops for an all-out war.

Hoping to avert a crisis, Korean leaders held a series of marathon talks inside the DMZ at Panmunjom, also known as "truce village."

Welcome to the Joint Security Area (JSA), the front line of the Korean conflict.

It's the only section of the DMZ where North and South Korean soldiers stand face-to-face.

The border runs down the middle of these two blue conference rooms, meaning one side is in South Korea and the other in the North. The white building is part of North Korea.

Tourists can't just wander into the JSA. It requires prior-authorization and being part of a group. I went with Koridoor.

There's plenty of rules to follow in such a potentially dangerous place – walk in single file lines; no gesturing or attempts to initiate conversations with North Korean soldiers; and no photos, until instructed.





At times, it felt a bit over done, but when one tourist snapped a photo without permission, a US serviceman, who was leading the tour, politely demanded he delete it.

After we received a briefing and signed release forms, soldiers escorted us into one of the negotiating rooms. Our previously talkative group suddenly grew quiet.

This South Korean soldier is straddling one of the world's most deadly borders. To the left of the flag and the microphones is the South and to the right the North. The microphones are on 24 hours a day to record anything that is said or done here.

"When I give you the word, you'll have three minutes for photos, and then we must leave," said one of the guides.

I headed straight around the table and into North Korean territory.

The conference room contains two entrances, one on each side of the border. When tourists visit from South Korea, the door on the North Korean side is locked, thus allowing me to safely visit North Korea.

Just in case someone decided to defect, a South Korean soldier, trained in martial arts, stood guard in front of the door to prevent anyone from leaving and presumably to stop any North Korean soldier from entering. By the way, the dark glasses and taekwondo stance are meant to intimidate the opposition.

The day I visited the JSA no North Koreans approached the border, but it happens routinely.

Here's a 2008 picture taken from North Korea during a South Korean tour group's visit to the conference rooms.

Used with Permission from Wikimedia Commons - 2008

The border is the concrete slab in the middle of the photo where the two North Koreans are standing at attention. During periods of unrest, a US soldier told me guards on both sides will sometimes square off at the slab, a mere inches from each other. The soldier told me he's heard of North Koreans feigning drawing their weapons to try to provoke the South.

When dignitaries visit, the tension and drama rise even higher.

This is a 2010 photo from then Secretary of State Hillary Clinton's trip to the JSA. Notice the North Korean soldier peering through the window.

Used with Permission from Wikimedia Commons - 2010.

I'll admit I was a bit nervous at times but mainly thrilled to finally see a place I'd read so much about over the years. If you're thinking of going, I'd highly recommend Koridoor.

Will Korea ever be reunited?

Some of the older people I talked with maintain hope. The war split the families of more than seven million people into two countries – preventing travel, mail, or even phone calls from traversing the divide.

But many younger people say they don't have much interest in reunification, especially because of the potential astronomical cost of developing the infrastructure and economy of the North.

Meanwhile, North and South continue to aim their weapons at each other, and the world continues to hope that no one makes a miscalculation that could trigger a major global war.

The Real South Korea

Hongseong High School, South Korea

New York City is certainly not representative of the way most Americans live just as Paris can't provide insight into the typical French household, but we visit these places for a snapshot of the countries.

Still, I'm always eager to get beyond just tourist attractions and immerse myself in a culture, which is why I joined Couchsurfing.

During my latest school holiday, in addition to checking out Seoul, I couldn't resist the offer from a Couchsurfer to see "the real Korea," and so I found myself in Hongseong, a city of 90,000 about two hours from the capital.

What's there to do in Hongseong? Not much, although I did enjoy walking

through the rice fields and wandering around the city.





Despite the lack of sights, Hongseong was one of my most fulfilling travel experiences ever because of my host Jay and his family.

Couchsurfing involves an incredible amount of trust. While Jay, a teacher, and his wife worked, I entertained myself, free to come and go as I pleased because I had a house key.That's the world of Couchsurfing.

We got together after work, when I was able to partake of some






of Korea's culinary delights










and just enjoy spending time with Jay, his wife, and their two kids.

The highlight of the four-day visit was Jay asking me to teach a couple of his English classes at his high school. You'd think that's the last thing a teacher would want to do on vacation, but I couldn't have felt more honored.

The students seemed to enjoy my lesson on "Why Study English?" At the very least, it was refreshing to just focus on trying to inspire the 10th graders, rather than worrying about covering reams of material.

Afterward, I took questions from both classes. My favorite – "Do you have a gun?" Is America's reputation really that bad? It's something to think about.

After school, the principal invited me to a dinner meeting. If you haven't tried Korean food, you're missing a treat. Rather than ordering one entrée, customers often sample

several, smaller plates of food placed on the table for all to enjoy.











I've always believed experiences are more gratifying than looking at statues and museums. Although I didn't see a lot in Hongseong, I'll never forget my four days encountering the "real Korea" with Jay and his family.

Sometimes, an experience – even a potentially deadly one – evolves into an unlikely tourist attraction, such as a visit to the Demilitarized Zone separating North and South Korea. I'll head there next.

A Visit to Brunei

Oil transformed it into one of the richest countries on Earth. A strict Islamic code dominates both religious life and society as a whole, and the country's leader rules with absolute power.

Sauda Arabia, Iraq, Kuwait?

Nope, it's no where near the Middle East, and it's full of Malays, not Arabs.

Welcome to Brunei – a tiny, tropical country surrounded by Malaysia on the island of Borneo in Southeast Asia.

Being an Islamic country, you won't find much of a nightlife here, including any alcohol, but you will find virgin rainforest, water sports, and an ever-growing foodie scene.

This is a shot of a vendor making kebabs at a popular night market, a tasty snake for just a couple of dollars.






Having a long weekend on the calendar, I decided to check out the nation, which is about the size of Delaware.

Most sights lie within walking distance or a short taxi ride away in the capital of Bandar Seri Begawan.

Of course, there's plenty of mosques, the most prominent being the Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque that dominates the skyline. The main dome is covered in gold.

The home of the Sultan, who's personal wealth is estimated to be around $20 billion, isn't bad either – a 1,788-room palace. Unfortunately, it's only open to the public for three days each year following Ramadan.

Tourists also flock to Kampung Ayer, a series of 42 water villages built on stilts.





Known as the "Venice of the East,"

 it's the largest stilt settlement in the world,

home to almost 40,000 people.






Rather than the sand found in most oil-producing countries, more than half of Brunei is covered by forests, making the Ulu Temburong National Park a popular stop for outdoor lovers hoping to spot wildlife.

Crime isn't a concern for tourists. Brunei is one of the safest places in the world, adhering to the draconian, Islamic, sharia law, leveling such punishments as stoning for adultery, amputations for theft, and flogging for drinking alcohol. Numerous civil rights organizations condemned the Sultan for enacting the law in 2014, especially since he reportedly lives a quite lavish and decadent lifestyle.

Since there isn't much to do in Brunei, friends asked why I went there. I guess part of the reason was wanting to visit one of the few remaining absolute monarchies, seven at last count. In the pictures above, the military was preparing for the king's 69th birthday.

On a daily basis, the Sultan's presence is felt and seen everywhere  – television, newspapers, and even billboards and banners.













In most countries, a leader's birthday isn't even noticed.

In Brunei, it's a national celebration.






But you won't hear anyone complaining because criticizing the Sultan is illegal.

Even though Brunei isn't a tourist mecca, it's worth a short visit, if only to experience a culture and political system far different from that seen in Southeast Asia or the rest of the world.