Sunday, July 14, 2013

A Return to the South China Sea - Hue, Vietnam - July 15, 2013

Beaches aren't my top travel destination, but in Vietnam, they're always close at hand, so yesterday I returned to the South China Sea for an afternoon of body surfing.

I met up with my American friends, Allie and Brent. She's a nurse. He's in a Blues band. They are a delightful couple. I first met them in Laos. A month later I ran into them on a bus in Vietnam. Imagine the odds. I was sad to see them leave yesterday, but we're going to try to get together one last time in Hanoi.

Because so much of Vietnam lies on the coast, it would be impossible for all the beaches to be full. Yesterday, the beach near Hue was practically empty. All we could see for miles were a few beach huts and large waves crashing against the golden sand. Great day!

I got to the beach with my favorite mode of transport - a Mary Poppins bicycle. Along the 7-mile route, I peddled my way through rice fields and a fishing village, listening to a chorus of "hellos" as I passed. If I had a dollar for every time someone said "hello" to me, especially kids, I'd have the cost of my vacation covered.

I think they are being friendly, and I think many Vietnamese want to practice their English. I'm happy to help, and it gives me a chance to interact and learn more about the culture.

I've been surprised by the playfulness of some Vietnamese. This morning, I returned to a local place for breakfast, a place I'd eaten yesterday. Like all of Southeast Asia, soup is the morning delicacy.

During the meal, the woman cooking on the sidewalk walked over to me and said, "You are handsome man. You and me, O.K.?" It was all in good fun. She's married and probably 20 years older than me, but I enjoyed the banter.

Often, I'm asked at home and here in Southeast Asia why I travel alone. This morning's encounter is a prime reason why. If I'm alone, I'm forced to reach out to others, and they feel more comfortable approaching me. If I'm traveling in a pack, it intimidates many people, especially those who are shy. I think it's the best way to immerse oneself in a foreign culture.

This is my third day in Hue. It's big enough that there's a lot going on but not unmanageable, and it still has a small town feel.

This afternoon, I'm heading to Hanoi via my last overnight bus ride, a 14-hour marathon. Really, the overnight sleeper buses aren't bad. Each passenger sits in a small compartment with an inclined seat that can almost be reclined flat. My legs are a little long, but I'm able to get some sleep. I'll take it over a plane any day.

Before I close, I wanted to throw in a couple of asides that I keep forgetting to include.

First, I am surprised by the modest dress of people throughout Southeast Asia. Even though it is steaming some days, men generally wear long pants and women remain covered up. Apparently, the people don't appreciate foreigners who reveal too much skin.

In Laos, at Vang Vieng, the place where I rode tubes down the river, the community actually posted several signs asking men not to go bare chested and women not to wear bikini tops because it offends Laotians. For the most part, tourists complied.

Throughout my trip, I've asked tourism people where most travelers originate. In Laos and Cambodia, I was told the majority of visitors are from Korea. In Vietnam, no one seems to know.

Speaking of tourism, I asked in Cambodia how many visitors came to the country last year. I was told 7 million, which if you think about it, isn't much. I'll bet most go to Ankhor. The same person told me that only 100,000 people visited the town of Battambang, where I saw the "killing caves."

Finally, malaria is supposedly for real in the region. It's not a problem in most tourist areas, but I read last week that one third of all people in Laos will contract the disease at some point in their lives.

That's about all I've got. I still need to pack. Next stop, Hanoi. As always, I'll be in touch.

2 comments:

  1. Is it possible the malaria has an impact on tourism? Do they promote tourism at all?

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  2. Those are good questions.

    The country definitely promotes Ankhor, but I don't think much else is on the radar screen.

    Really, I think the reason more people don't visit is that Cambodia has had a rather tumultuous past, and it is definitely a developing country.

    Still, I would highly recommend that people visit.

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